Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles — John Shaqi
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
A peculiar property of essential oils, which is of great importance
in their preparation, is that of distilling over in large quantities
with steam—both ordinary and superheated—that is, at temperatures
at most only slightly exceeding 100° C. or 212° F. For this reason
essential oils are usually obtained in this way, since they are but
slightly soluble in water. Still, most of the oils dissolve in water in
sufficient amount to impart to it their characteristic odor and thus
to render it often very fragrant. Aqua Naphæ triplex (orange-flower
water), rose water, etc., are such as have been distilled over with the
essential oils, contain a small quantity of the latter in solution, and
hence have a very agreeable odor.
All essential oils dissolve readily in strong alcohol, petroleum ether,
benzol, bisulphide of carbon, in liquid and solid fats, in glycerin,
etc.; we shall again recur to this important subject under the head of
the preparation of the essential oils.
If a freshly prepared essential oil is at once excluded from the air
by being placed in hermetically sealed vessels which it completely
fills, and is kept from the light, the oil will remain unchanged for
any length of time. But if an essential oil is exposed to the air, a
peculiar, chemical alteration begins, which proceeds more rapidly and
obviously if direct light acts upon the oil at the same time. The odor
becomes less intense, the oil grows darker in color and more viscous,
and also acquires a peculiar quality: it has a strong bleaching
effect which is easily seen on the cork closing the bottle, which is
beautifully bleached. After a certain time the oil changes to a viscid,
less odorous mass, into balsam, and the latter, after the prolonged
influence of the air, finally changes into a brownish, odorless
substance, into resin.
These remarkable physical and chemical alterations depend on the fact
that the essential oil absorbs oxygen from the air, which it puts into
a peculiar condition in which it exerts increased chemical activity
and is termed ozonized oxygen. One of the most marked of these effects
is the uncommonly strong bleaching power of ozonized or active oxygen.
When an essential oil that has altered so far as to contain ozonized
oxygen—which is shown by its bleaching vegetable coloring matters such
as the juice of cherries, red beets, tincture of litmus, etc., agitated
with it—is cooled, we notice the separation from it of a usually
crystalline, colorless, and odorless body called stearopten, while the
remaining liquid part is called elæopten. Stearopten always contains
oxygen, while elæopten still consists only of carbon and hydrogen.
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