Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
The aromatic substances here enumerated are those which have actually
found general employment in perfumery; but the list is not complete,
since every aromatic plant can be used for the extraction of its
odor. Of course, this is connected with some difficulties, but even
in the present state of our knowledge they can all be overcome. When
a new odor has been prepared, the art of the perfumer consists in
ascertaining by many experiments those substances which harmonize with
it; for with few exceptions the finest grades of perfumes are not
single odors but combinations of several which are in accord.
Even among our domestic plants there are numerous finds to be made by
the perfumer, and in this respect we refer particularly to some very
fragrant kinds of orchids in our woods and to the delightful odor of
the lily of the valley. As to the latter, a perfume is met with in
commerce under this name, but its odor bears no resemblance to that of
the flower.
A few facts appear to us of especial importance. In practical perfumery
many of the plants which are easily obtainable in large quantities,
such as the flowers of clover and trefoil, the primrose, the rock-rose
(Daphne Cneorum), dame’s-violet (Hesperis matronalis), and others
above named, have never been employed. As an actual curiosity we may
state that there is thus far no perfume containing the delightful odor
present in the flowers of the linden-tree, of the Robinia (erroneously
called Acacia), of the lilac, etc., at least not made from the plants
here named.
CHAPTER V.
THE ANIMAL SUBSTANCES USED IN PERFUMERY.
While the vegetable kingdom offers us an abundance of aromatic odors
the end of which it is impossible to foresee, the animal kingdom
contains absolutely no substance which may be called sweet-scented in
the strict sense of the term. If we find nevertheless a few animal
substances generally used in perfumery, they should be considered
rather as excellent means for fixing subtle vegetable odors than as
fragrant bodies in the true sense. By themselves, indeed, they have
an odor, but to most persons it is not agreeable even if properly
diluted. Thus far only five substances of animal origin are employed in
perfumery, namely: ambergris, castor, hyraceum, musk, and civet.
AMBERGRIS.
_Latin_—Ambra grisea; _French_—Ambregris; _German_—Ambra.
This is a substance whose origin is still doubtful; many facts
indicate that it is a secretion—whether normal or morbid may be left
undecided—of the largest living mammal, namely, of the pot-whale
(Physeter macrocephalus). Ambergris is found in the intestines of this
animal or, more frequently, floating about in the sea; the shores of
the continents bordering the Indian Ocean furnish the largest amount of
this peculiar substance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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