Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles — John Shaqi
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
Ambergris is a grayish-white fatty substance which occurs in commerce
in pieces of various sizes—those as large as a fist are rare—of a
penetrating, decidedly disagreeable odor. It is soluble in alcohol, and
when properly diluted the odor becomes pleasant and it is so permanent
that a piece of linen moistened with it smells of it even after being
washed with soap. By itself, ambergris is not much used; it finds its
chief application in combination with other odors or as an addition to
some perfumes in order to make them lasting.
CASTOR.
_Latin_—Castoreum; _French_—Castoreum; _German_—Castoreum.
This is a secretion of the beaver (Castor fiber); it accumulates in two
pear-shaped bags on the abdomen of the animal, both male and female.
The hunters remove these bags from the body of the dead animal and in
this form they are brought into commerce. These sacs are the length of
a finger, at the thickest point the diameter of a thumb, and contain
a greasy mass of yellowish-brown, reddish-brown, or blackish color,
according to the nourishment of the animal. This mass constitutes
castor; it has a strong, disagreeable odor, a bitter, balsamic taste,
becomes soft when heated, is combustible, and almost entirely soluble
in alcohol. It is probable that this secretion in its composition
has some relation to the nourishment of the beavers which feed by
preference on resinous vegetable substances. In commerce Canadian and
Siberian castor are distinguished; the latter is more valuable and has
almost disappeared from the market. It possesses a peculiar tarry,
Russian-leather odor, probably due to a substance present in birch
bark, upon which the Siberian animals feed almost exclusively. Canadian
castor has an odor more nearly resembling pine resin. In perfumery
castor is rarely used, usually only for fixing other odors.
HYRACEUM.
The substance occurring in commerce under this name, the excrement of
an animal found in Capeland, the rock badger or rock rabbit (Hyrax
capensis), is very similar in its properties to castor, and according
to comparative experiments made by us can be used in place of the
latter.
MUSK.
_Latin_—Moschus; _French_—Musc; _German_—Moschus.
Of animal substances, musk is most frequently used in perfumery, and
possesses the most agreeable odor of them all. Moreover, the odor of
musk is the most intense that we know, actually imponderable quantities
of it being sufficient to impart to a large body of air the strong odor
of musk. This substance is derived from a deer which attains the size
of a small goat and, like the chamois of the Alps, lives on the highest
mountains of the Himalayas. Only the male animal (Moschus moschiferus)
produces musk, which is secreted in a sac or rather gland near the
sexual organ. Musk being subject to the worst adulterations owing to
its high price, we append a description of the substance as well as of
the sac or bag in which it appears in commerce.
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