CHAPTER XXII. The Preparations Used for the Care of the Hair (Pomades and Hair Oils) 245 CHAPTER XXIII. Formulas for the Manufacture of Pomades and Hair Oils 247 CHAPTER XXIV. Preparations for the Care of the Mouth 257 CHAPTER XXV. Cosmetic Perfumery 269 CHAPTER XXVI. Skin Cosmetics and Face Lotions 270 CHAPTER XXVII. Hair Cosmetics 280 CHAPTER XXVIII. Hair Dyes and Depilatories 285 CHAPTER XXIX. Wax Pomades, Bandolines, and Brillantines 294 CHAPTER XXX. The Colors Used in Perfumery 297 CHAPTER XXXI. The Utensils Used in the Toilet 301 PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. CHAPTER I. THE HISTORY OF PERFUMERY. The gratification of his senses is peculiar to man, and it is to this trait that we are indebted for all the arts. The activities which aimed at the gratification of the eye and ear developed into the creative arts and music, and in like manner human endeavor directed toward the stimulation of the sense of smell has in our time assumed the proportions both of an art and a science; for it was nothing but the advancement of chemistry that made it possible to fix all the pleasant odors offered by nature and to create new perfumes by the artistic combination of these scents. The preparation of perfumes is a very ancient art that is met with among all peoples possessed of any degree of civilization. It is particularly the ancient nations of the Orient which had in truth become masters in the manufacture of numerous perfumes. The first perfume was the fragrant flower; it has continued to be so to the present day: the sprig of dried lavender flowers which we lay in the clothes-press was probably used for the same purpose by the contemporaries of Aristotle. In the Orient, which we may look upon as the cradle of the art of perfumery, the idea suggested itself early to substitute for the delicious fragrance of the flowers some substances of lasting odor; various sweet-scented resins supplied the material for this purpose. The use of these aromatic resins must have been very extensive: the ancient Egyptians alone consumed extraordinary quantities for embalming their dead. How highly the Oriental peoples in general prized perfumes can be learned from the Bible: the Jews (like the Catholics to the present day) employed an aromatic gum-resin (olibanum, frankincense) in their religious ceremonies; in the Song of Solomon mention is made of Indian perfumes, for instance, cinnamon, spikenard, myrrh, and aloes.