Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles — John Shaqi
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
Strange to say, some essential oils or aromatic substances in general,
develop their finest odors only when the perfumes are prepared with an
alcohol from a certain source. While the charcoal treatment removes
almost all the fusel oil, the remaining traces suffice to act as
odorous substances in the true sense of the term and to produce with
other aromatic bodies a harmony of the odor which can never be reached
by the use of another variety of alcohol. To give but a single instance
we may state that all the citron odors known in perfumery develop the
finest aroma only when dissolved in alcohol made from wine and the
solution is then distilled. The world-renowned eau de Cologne is made
in this way; the other aromatic substances contained in it are added to
the distillate from the spirit of wine and the citron oils; any cologne
made in another manner or with another alcohol has a less fine odor.
While the citron odors require true spirit of wine for the development
of their full aroma, other scents require beet or corn alcohol to bring
out their best odor. Jasmine, tuberose, orange flowers, violet, etc.,
and all animal odors (ambergris, musk, and civet) belong to the latter
class. For this remarkable and to the perfumer most important fact we
know no other explanation than that traces of fusel oils present even
in rectified alcohol take part in the general impression made on the
olfactory nerves, acting as true aromatic substances.
Cologne spirit is expensive, but this should not be a reason for
accepting a cheaper grade, with which it would be absolutely impossible
to make really fine perfumes.
Alcohol is also generally used for the direct extraction of odorous
substances from plants, as will be seen in the description of the
processes employed in the preparation of the so-called essences or
extracts. For these purposes, too, the best cologne spirit only
should be used, that is, alcohol which has been freed from fusel oil
and redistilled, for in no other way can the aromatic substances be
obtained in the greatest possible purity. And this is indispensable
for the preparation of really fine perfumes, for we do not hesitate
to say that French and English perfumes have acquired their deserved
reputation mainly through the great care exercised in the selection of
their raw materials, and especially of the alcohol used for extraction.
ALLOXAN.
This preparation, which is used in making a fine skin cosmetic, is
manufactured in chemical laboratories from uric acid heated with nitric
acid. Alloxan is a crystalline colorless body which has the property
of gradually producing a red tint on the skin and finds employment for
this reason.
AMMONIA.
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