Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
Ammonia is a gas formed by the decomposition of nitrogenous substances,
but chiefly obtained, on a large scale, from the so-called “gas
liquor” of gas works. By itself it develops a very disagreeable odor
and stimulates the lachrymal glands to secretion—a fact which can
be verified in any stable. A solution of the gas (water of ammonia;
liquor ammoniæ) possesses the same properties. In perfumery ammonia is
never used alone, but only in combination with other odors, namely,
in the manufacture of smelling salts (French: sels volatils; German:
Riechsalze), which are much in favor in England and in this country.
For the purposes of the perfumer, the greater part of the commercial
ammonia is unsuitable owing to its tarry odor. Pure ammonia is best
prepared by heating equal parts of quicklime and powdered sal-ammoniac
in a retort, and conducting the generated gas into water which
dissolves it with avidity, one quart of water dissolving more than
seven hundred quarts of ammonia gas.
CARBONATE OF AMMONIA,
a combination of ammonia with carbonic acid, occurs in commerce in
large transparent lumps, often covered with a white dust of bicarbonate
of ammonia, which in the air continually develop ammonia and therefore
always smell of it. This commercial product is, as a rule, sufficiently
pure to be used in perfumery; as to its application the same remarks
apply as were made under the head of ammonia.
OIL OF BITTER ALMONDS (OLEUM AMYGDALÆ AMARÆ).
This is made from bitter almonds, previously deprived of fatty oil by
pressure, which are mixed with an equal weight of water and set in a
warm place. The amygdalin undergoes decomposition into sugar, hydrogen
cyanide, and benzoyl hydride or oil of bitter almonds. After one or two
days the mass is distilled; the distillate being a colorless liquid,
containing, besides oil of bitter almonds, hydrogen cyanide or prussic
acid, one of the most virulent poisons, from which it must be freed.
This is done by shaking the liquid repeatedly with dilute solution of
potassa, followed by agitation with water. Pure oil of bitter almonds
is not poisonous, but has a very strong narcotic odor of bitter
almonds, which, however, becomes most marked when largely diluted with
water.
BENZOIC ACID (ACIDUM BENZOICUM).
This acid, contained in benzoin, is made also synthetically from other
materials, in chemical laboratories. When pure it forms needle-shaped
crystals having a silky gloss; they have a peculiar acrid taste, but no
odor. Synthetic benzoic acid is worthless to the perfumer; in his art
he can use only a benzoic acid made from gum benzoin by sublimation,
because it contains a very aromatic essential oil for which the acid
is merely the vehicle and which can also be employed alone.
As this sublimed benzoic acid is often adulterated with the artificial,
we advise the manufacturer of perfumery to make his own benzoic acid
according to the following directions.
_The Manufacture of Sublimed Benzoic Acid._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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