Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
The Arabs, the ancient masters of chemistry, were also the first
founders of the art of perfumery. Thus the Arabian physician Avicenna,
in the tenth century, taught the art of preparing fragrant waters from
leaves, and Sultan Saladin, in 1157, on his triumphal entry, had the
walls of the mosque of Omar washed with rose water.
It was the intercourse with the Orient brought about by the Crusades
that made Europeans again more familiar with the art of perfumery, and
a number of new odors rapidly became known. Italy and France, in those
times the representatives of culture, were the countries in which the
preparation of perfumes was carried on on a large scale. Thus, for
instance, we find the name of a Roman family preserved to the present
day because one of its members had combined a sweet-scented powder,
called Frangipanni after its inventor, which is still in favor, and
because his grandson Mauritius Frangipanni had made the important
discovery that by treating this powder with spirit of wine the fragrant
substance could be obtained in a fluid form.
The fact has been frequently related and repeated, that Catherine de
Medici, the wife of Henry II., had made use of the fashion of perfuming
the body for the purpose of ridding herself of objectionable persons,
by giving them scented gloves prepared and at the same time poisoned by
a Florentine named René (Renato?). We think this tale to be simply a
hair-raising fable—modern chemistry knows no substance the mere touch
of which could produce the effect of a fatal poison; and it is scarcely
credible that such a material had been known at that time and lost
sight of since.
In the sixteenth century, especially at the court of Queen Elizabeth,
perfumes were used with great extravagance; in fact, were looked upon
as one of the necessaries of life. This luxury was carried still
farther at the courts of the sumptuous kings of France; Louis XV. went
so far as to demand every day a different odor for his apartments. A
lady’s lover always used the same kind of perfume she did.
It is well known that among the Oriental nations perfumes are used so
largely that even food is flavored with rose water, musk, etc.; and
Indian and Chinese goods always possess a peculiar aroma which is so
characteristic for certain products that it was considered to be a sign
of genuineness; this was the case, for instance, with the patchouly
odor which always adheres to Indian shawls.
A shawl-maker of Lyons, who had succeeded in perfectly imitating Indian
shawls with reference to design and colors, spent a fabulous sum to
obtain possession of the plant used by the Indian weavers for perfuming
their wares. Despite the great outlay caused by the search for this
plant, the manufacturer is said to have done a flourishing business
with his “genuine” Indian shawls.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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