Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
It will be easier to understand the almost incredible productiveness
of perfumes if we cite as an instance that a few centigrams of musk
placed on a sensitive scale can for years fill a large hall with their
characteristic odor without showing an appreciable loss of weight, and
still particles must separate from the musk and become evenly diffused
through the air of the hall because the odor is perceptible throughout
every part of it.
It would be an error, however, were we to assume that all aromatic
substances possess the same degree of productiveness; some of them, as
for instance the odorous principle of orris root, have a comparatively
faint smell—a fact which must be borne in mind in the combination of
perfumes. Even odors having a very similar effect on the olfactory
nerves differ widely in their intensity; for instance, true oil (attar)
of roses possesses an intensity more than twice as great as that of the
rose geranium; many authorities agree in giving the proportion as three
to eight, the first figure being that of rose oil, the second that of
oil of rose geranium. Therefore, in order to produce perfumes of equal
intensity (having the same effect on the olfactory nerves), we must
dissolve in an equal quantity of the menstruum either three parts by
weight of the attar of roses or eight parts of the oil of rose geranium.
In the prescriptions for the preparation of perfumes given in this
book, these proportions have been carefully weighed; but it will be the
office of the trained olfactory sense of the manufacturer to modify
them for the various kinds of perfumery in such a way as to produce a
truly harmonious pleasant odor.
Although we know many aromatic substances, we are still in ignorance as
to the preparation of certain decidedly agreeable odors. Thus no one at
present is able to produce the refreshing odor of the sea borne along
on the wind, any more than we are able to reproduce the scent exhaled
by the forest, especially after a warm rain; chemistry, though it has
done much in the domain of perfumery, has thus far thrown no light
upon it. Even certain vegetable odors—for instance, the delightful
perfume exhaled by some Aroideæ and Primulaceæ—we cannot as yet
preserve unchanged in perfumery. This opens an illimitable field for
future activity to the progressive manufacturer.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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