Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
In a book devoted to the production of perfumes it would certainly
be in place to say something about the physiological relations of
the olfactory sensations; but unfortunately this interesting part
of physiology is still enveloped in great obscurity. All we know
positively on this subject is that many particles of the odorous bodies
evaporate and must come in contact with the olfactory nerves in order
to produce the sensation of odor. There is no lack of experiments
seeking to draw a parallel between sensations of smell and those of
hearing, and, as is well known, we speak of a harmony and dissonance
of odors as we do of tones. Piesse, the renowned perfumer, has even
made an attempt to arrange the different odors in a “harmonic scale”
having the compass of the piano, and to deduce therefrom a law for the
mixture of the several aromatic substances. This attempt, although very
ingenious, still lacks a scientific foundation. Piesse endeavors to
combine the several scents like tones to produce chords in different
scales; the chords of odors are to agree with those of tones. Thus far,
however, no proof has been furnished that the olfactory nerve and the
acoustic nerve have the same organization, and under this supposition
alone could Piesse’s system be accepted as correct.
THE DIVISION OF AROMATIC SUBSTANCES ACCORDING TO THEIR ORIGIN.
The majority of the substances used in perfumery are derived from
the vegetable kingdom, but some come from the animal kingdom, and
for others which do not occur complete in nature we are indebted to
chemistry. As is well known, most blossoms possess a decided odor,
which is extremely fragrant in some; yet it is not the blossoms
alone, but in different genera various parts are distinguished by
agreeable odors. In some plants the fragrant substances are contained
in every part, as in different pines and the mints; in others, only
in the fruits (nutmeg, vanilla), while the other parts are odorless;
in certain plants only the rinds of the fruits contain an aromatic
substance (oranges, lemons). In the Florentine Iris the entire plant is
odorless—only its root stock possesses an agreeable, violet-like scent;
while, for instance, in the camphor-tree an aromatic substance exists
in the wood, in the cinnamon laurel in the bark, in the clove-tree
mainly in the closed buds.
But taking the aromatic plants all together, we find that it is
particularly their flowers which contain the finest odors, and that the
majority of perfumes are prepared from their blossoms.
From the animal kingdom we take for the purposes of perfumery only a
very small number of substances, among which, moreover, some peculiar
relation exists; while, for instance, all men would call the odor of
violets, roses, vanilla, etc., agreeable, the odor of some animal
substances is decidedly obnoxious to many persons, though others like
it—an observation which can be verified often with reference to musk.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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