Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
The demonstration of an adulteration with an essential oil is most
certain by so-called fractional distillation. Some of the oil to be
examined (about four to six fluidrachms) is placed in a small retort
with condenser and heated to a temperature a few degrees below the
boiling-point of the oil in question. If, for instance, oil of bergamot
adulterated with oil of turpentine is to be tested, it is heated
carefully to nearly 188° C. (370° F.), the boiling-point of the oil of
bergamot; the oil of turpentine which boils at 160° C. (320° F.) passes
over completely, while the oil of bergamot remains in the retort.
Fractional distillation is also the most reliable way of demonstrating
an adulteration with a fixed oil or with paraffin, wax, or spermaceti.
An adulteration of oil of lavender with oil of spike-lavender, which
is otherwise barely recognizable, is positively shown by this method;
even oil of geranium in oil of rose, oil of cassia in oil of cinnamon,
etc., may be thus demonstrated.
B. ADULTERATION OF ESSENTIAL OILS WITH FIXED OILS.
An addition of fixed oils can be easily demonstrated by agitation of
the oil with strong alcohol in which the essential oil dissolves,
while the fixed oil remains unchanged. Castor oil, however, is
likewise soluble in alcohol and for this reason is frequently used
for the adulteration of essential oils. Yet the presence of a fixed
oil can also be shown in a very simple manner by placing a drop of
the suspected oil upon white paper and leaving it for some hours in
a warm spot. If the oil was pure, the translucent stain on the paper
will disappear completely (also when the oil was adulterated with
turpentine); but if it was mixed with a fixed oil, the stain will
remain permanently and cannot be removed from the paper even by strong
heat.
C. ADULTERATION WITH ALCOHOL.
This frequent adulteration is demonstrated either by fractional
distillation, when the alcohol passes over first between 70° and 80° C.
(158° and 176° F.), or by the use of the vessel illustrated in Fig. 31,
which is divided into 100 equal parts.
[Illustration: FIG. 31.]
The vessel is filled to the tenth division with the oil to be tested,
and water is added to bring the volume to the 50 mark. If alcohol is
present, it is taken up by the water so that the volume of oil appears
to diminish. If the oil reaches to the mark 7, it contained three
volumes of alcohol, or in other words it was mixed with thirty per cent
of alcohol. It is true, essential oils likewise dissolve somewhat in
water, but in such minute quantities as not to affect the success of
the test.
D. ADULTERATION WITH PARAFFIN, SPERMACETI, OR WAX.
This mode of adulteration is practised mainly with viscid oils which
congeal at rather high temperatures, such as oils of anise, rose, etc.,
the essential oils being usually mixed at the same time with oil of
turpentine or paraffin. The fraud is easily detected by fractional
distillation.
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