Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articlesAskinson, George William
Science
Perfumes and their preparation : $b Containing complete directions for making handkerchief perfumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastils; preparations for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair; cosmetics, hair dyes, and other toilet articles
Askinson, George William
Cosmetics; Perfumes
Oil of bitter almonds is often adulterated with oil of mirbane; this
can be demonstrated by shaking 1 volume of the oil with 17 volumes
of alcohol of 45%, and setting the mixture aside to settle. The
nitrobenzol (oil of mirbane) will then collect at the bottom. Oil of
Rose may be tested as follows: Mix the oil with an equal quantity of
concentrated sulphuric acid. Neither the color nor the odor of the oil
should be changed, but if oil of geranium was present a disagreeable
odor and a darker color is produced.
It has been proposed, too, to test the oils by heating with iodine
or nitric acid and determining the purity by the reaction; but the
results with the different oils are so similar that the test is
almost worthless. We have had the same experience with the test by
nitro-prusside of copper which on being heated with essential oils
gives colored precipitates differing with various oils, but still so
similar that they cannot be relied upon. We have found in all cases
that a comparison of an oil with a sample of known purity is the best,
or else the tests given in the preceding pages.
CHAPTER X.
THE ESSENCES OR EXTRACTS EMPLOYED IN PERFUMERY.
The term _essence_ or _extract_ in perfumery means a solution of an
aromatic substance in strong alcohol. These solutions are generally
made as concentrated as possible and in this form find application in
the manufacture of handkerchief perfumes and of certain odors bearing a
special name. The so-called extrait d’œillet, extract of pink, or the
favorite perfumes known as new-mown hay have nothing in common with
either pink or hay except the name; like many other odors, both are
merely mixtures of different essences or extracts.
Besides the manufacture of true perfumes, essences or extracts are
also used for scenting fine soaps, sachets, mouth washes, etc. For the
latter, too, use is often made of the so-called aromatic waters (eaux
aromatisées) which are obtained as a by-product in the distillation of
fragrant plants, and have a very fine odor owing to the small amount
of the aromatic substance they hold in solution. To this class belong
orange-flower water (Aqua Naphæ triplex, eau de fleurs d’oranges),
peppermint water (Aqua Menthæ, eau de menthe), and many others.
Essences or extracts can be made in two ways: in the case of aromatic
substances which are obtainable in the pure state—that is, essential
oils—by dissolving them in strong alcohol in definite proportions;
in the case of aromatics combined with a fatty substance by one of
the processes described above, by treating the pomade (lard, or other
perfectly bland, sweet, and in itself odorless fat combined with the
aromatic) or huile antique (fixed oil holding the aromatic substance
in solution) with the strongest alcohol.
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