PERSIA REVISITED [Illustration: H.I.M. Nasr-ed-Din, The Late Shah, on the steps of the Peacock Throne] * * * * * PERSIA REVISITED (1895) _WITH REMARKS ON H.I.M. MOZUFFER-ED-DIN SHAH, AND THE PRESENT SITUATION IN PERSIA_ (1896) BY GENERAL SIR THOMAS EDWARD GORDON K.C.I.E., C.B., C.S.I. _Formerly Military Attaché and Oriental Secretary to Her Majesty's Legation at Tehran._ Author of 'The Roof of the World' ILLUSTRATED * * * * * PREFACE On revisiting Tehran last autumn, I was struck with the evidence of progress and improvement in Persia, and on returning home I formed the idea of publishing a short account of my journey, with observations and opinions which are based on my previous experiences, and have reference also to what has been recorded by others. In carrying out this idea, I have made use of information given in the well-known books on Persia by Malcolm, Fraser, Watson and Curzon. 'Persia Revisited,' as first written, comprised up to Chapter VI. of the book; but just as I had finished it for publication, the sad news of the assassination of the Shah, Nasr-ed-Din, was received. I then saw that my book, to be complete, should touch on the present situation in Persia, and accordingly I added two chapters which deal with the new Shah and his brothers, and the Sadr Azem and the succession. The illustrations are from photographs by M. Sevragine of Tehran, with the exception of the likeness of H.I.M. the Shah Mozuffer-ed-Din, and that of H.H. Ali Asghar Khan, Sadr Azem, which latter, by Messrs. W. and D. Downey, of Ebury Street, London, is published by their kind permission. T.E. GORDON. _May, 1896._ CONTENTS CHAPTER I. --London to Baku --Oil-wells and works --Persians abroad --Caspian steamers --Caspian salmon --Enzelli lagoon --The Jews in Persia --Resht trade --'My eye' --Russian road --The tobacco 'strike,' 1891 --Collapse of Tobacco Régie --Moulla opposition CHAPTER II. --The late Shah's long reign --His camp life --Habits --Appearance --Persian Telegraph Intelligence Department --Farming the revenues --Condition of the people --The shoe question --The Customs --Importation of arms --Martini-Henry rifles --Indo-European telegraph CHAPTER III. --Kasvin grapes --Persian wine --Vineyards in Persia --Wine manufacture --Mount Demavend --Afshar volcanic region --Quicksilver and gold --Tehran water-supply --Village quarrels --Vendetta --Tehran tramways --Bread riots --Mint and copper coin CHAPTER IV. --Religious tolerance in Tehran --Katie Greenfield's case --Babi sect --Liberal opinions --German enterprise in Persia --Railways in Asia Minor --Russian road extension --Railways to Persian frontiers --The Karun River --Trade development --The Kajar dynasty --Life titles --Chieftainship of tribes --Sanctuary --The Pearl cannon CHAPTER V.