Every Monday and Tuesday, as is generally known, the whole Abbey is
thrown open to sightseers, who may range unguided, and as they list,
through the beautiful Henry VII. Chapel and the side chapels. The shrine
of the Confessor is in a very shattered and mouldering state, but the
wonder is that everything is in such excellent preservation. A reason is
given for this state of decay. Once, when they were putting up Lord
Bath’s monument, in presence of a great crowd, a mob broke in, so that a
number of gentlemen who were standing on the ledge at the back of one of
the royal tombs were seized with a panic and tore down the canopy of the
tomb to defend themselves with the fragments. There is an odd bit of
economy, by-the-way, in the direction of showmanship which might be
remedied, and which has an air of shabbiness, viz., the setting out the
names of the tombs and chapels on dirty cards in pen and ink.
As we make our careless and perhaps superficial promenade from chapel
to chapel, we are almost bewildered by the number and variety of the
huge edifices, rather than monuments, which record the memory of the
great seigneurs who repose below. These are all of grand and solemn
proportions--great gloomy pillared archings and entablatures--huge
altars below, tiers and galleries, and angelic or kneeling figures. The
materials are of the richest--costly deep-toned marbles and bronzes.
Connected with each there is a regular history, which chroniclers like
Dean Stanley have set out at great length. Indeed, a full history of
Westminster Abbey would fill many a portly volume. We may, without
following in the laborious steps of these historians, take a few
glimpses at the more striking, and that without any order.
These vast structures, often of a solid and massive pattern, rising to
sixty or seventy feet, with columns, arches, carvings, bronzes and rich
onyx-like marbles, could not have been reared in our time under some
twenty thousand pounds, the Wellington monument, not nearly so
elaborate, costing some twenty-seven thousand.
Here, for instance, in St. John the Baptist’s Chapel, we find ourselves
before Lord Hunsdon’s enormous monument, which is truly imposing, and
considered by Fuller “the most magnificent” in the Abbey. As Dean
Stanley points out, its sumptuousness was intended as an _amende_ for
the earldom three times granted and three times revoked, the Queen
herself coming to him when he was dying and laying the patent on his
bed. “Madam,” was his reply, “seeing you accounted me not worthy of this
honour whilst I was living, I count myself unworthy of it now that I am
dying.” It is worth while thinking of this scene, as we gaze on its
stupendous and stately proportions, and learn that it is the loftiest in
the place. But what a point this little story gives to this spectacle of
empty magnificence!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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