The little streets that descend from the Strand to the Embankment are
mostly old-fashioned and picturesque in their way--perhaps from the
contrast they offer to the noise and “sea-shell roar” of that busy
thoroughfare. Many end in a _cul de sac_ with an open aërial gallery as
it were, whence we can look down on the silvery Thames below, with all
its noble bridges. All these quiet alleys have some interesting or
suggestive memorial to exhibit; their houses seem of the one
pattern--sound and snug--of the early Georgian era, and mostly given
over to the “private hotel” business. It may be conceived how much more
interesting and piquant it was when these alleys led straight down, as
many did, to the water’s edge, now set far off by the Embankment. The
curious mixture of associations, as we wander up and down; the strange
incredible squalor of some portions, the comparative stateliness and
imposing air of others, the pretty gardens, the way in which memories of
Garrick, Franklin, Peter the Great, the Romans, Charles Dickens, and
many more, are suggested and jumbled together at every turn, make the
old familiar Strand one of the most interesting quarters in London.
This may seem a puzzling statement. As all the world knows there is
little or nothing of pretension about the streets--the houses are mean,
the shops poor. There are no stately buildings--save indeed one theatre,
handsome enough; and the church of St. Mary-le-Strand, lately in a
precarious way, is threatened with removal. For all that it will be seen
that a person who starts to explore the Strand and its “dependencies,”
with instructions what to look for, will have a very enjoyable
pilgrimage.
The Adelphi and the Adelphi Terrace are familiar enough; but it is not
so familiarly known to the passing crowd that they were named after
certain “Brothers”--an eminent family of architects--the brothers Adam.
These remarkable persons have left the most enduring marks of their
talent and influence all over London. It is a sign of ability, and even
of
[Illustration: ADELPHI TERRACE]
genius, thus to make a strong impression on one’s generation. The Adam
style is felt and appreciated to this hour, and as we walk about London
it constantly forces itself on us for recognition. We know it by its
grace and delicacy, and generally dignified treatment; above all, by a
proportion that triumphs over inferior means and materials. As we walk
it is possible to stop and say “Yonder is an Adam house.” All their
effects are nicely calculated; such as the depth of a pilaster, the size
of a window, the relation of the stories. The late Mr. Fergusson notes
particularly “their peculiar mode of fenestration.” “They frequently,”
he says, “attempted to group three or more windows together by a great
glazed arch above them, so as to try and make the whole side of a house
look like one room.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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