The leading and inspiring member of the family, John, went to Italy to
study. He devoted himself to a single building, the famous Palace of
Diocletian, which he selected for the sensible reason that it presented
a unique pattern of the dwelling-house of the ancients, whereas
attention had mostly been concentrated on their public buildings. These
studies bore fruit in a perfect system. The enthusiastic Scot, having
conceived this idea, betook him to Spalato, taking with him a skilled
French artist to make the drawings, while he himself took all the
measurements. As we turn over the sumptuous atlas-folio tome which
embodied his labours, we wonder at the energy and magnificence which
then directed such projects. It was published by subscription, and the
roll of distinguished names, from the King down, shows what patronage he
enjoyed. The work is one of the most pleasing and romantic of such
records.
The arrival of the two _dilettante_ strangers in the ruined and deserted
town excited suspicion, and it being assumed they were making drawings
of the fortifications, they were ordered to desist. But these and other
difficulties were overcome. Interest in this extraordinary and
astonishing ruin has lately been revived by Mr. Jackson’s charming book;
and from the beautiful drawings made in Adam’s work we see that it was a
picturesque, rather forlorn, town with dilapidated fortifications round
it on the sea-shore. There were to be seen the remains of the superb
galleries of the Emperor, the temples and the banqueting halls, with the
richly carved capitals, colonnades, friezes, etc., all in sound and
excellent condition. Even the turning over of these pictures seems like
being in a dream, with the Claude-like Italian shore before us, the
splendid ruins, which appear to want little more than roofing,
stretching high above the coast, so as to have the finest view of the
sea. More than a century has gone by since that visit, and some strange
changes have taken place; the inhabitants have been reverent, but,
straitened for room, have built their houses through the palace. As the
stranger wanders through the streets he comes on columns and arches
embedded in modern walls, while the two pagan temples which the Emperor
built have since been converted into a cathedral and church, without any
rude violence being done.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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