Picturesque Spain: Architecture, landscape, life of the people.Hielscher, Kurt
History
Picturesque Spain: Architecture, landscape, life of the people.
Hielscher, Kurt
Spain -- Description and travel
The further you penetrate into the town, the more the sacred holiday
stillness is ousted. All Seville is crowding, chattering and laughing to
the Cathedral to see the procession. At last you have to stop. There is
no getting through the impenetrable human wall. It is a strange
procession that is passing by, as though conjured up from the Middle
Ages. Huddled figures stalk past slowly and stiffly. They appear like
spectres. Old pictures of witches and inquisitionary trials are recalled
to my mind, for nowhere else have I ever seen such terrifying
apparitions; never in life. Black cowls are wrapped around their bodies,
and on their head are huge black conical hats a yard high. Long sable
cloths, in which only two eyelets are pierced, are suspended over their
faces down to their waists. A corded rope is wound round the penitential
garments. The hands of the apparitions clasp rough wooden crosses, or
metal staves, as tall as themselves. These figures march in front of a
portable dais on which a life-like statue of the Virgin Mary is
enthroned clad in magnificent garments thickly encrusted with gold.--The
procession stops. The dais is lowered. A young woman steps from the
crowd, turns her eyes to the Queen of Heaven and sings her praise.
When the twenty or thirty bearers who carry the heavy dais on their
shoulders, and who are hidden by drapery suspended round the frame, have
rested enough, the signal to start is given by knocking on the front of
the dais. A jerk, and the procession moves on a few paces. One religious
body of brethren follows on the heels of the other. Each of them wear
their own distinctive multi-coloured badges. Some have a blue pointed
hat, others white, brown, violet or other coloured garments. Next to a
father his ten-year old son in the same vestments is often seen, as well
as the miniature penitent of fifteen in the procession.
The various brotherhoods are filled with an ardent ambition to outdo the
others in the magnificence of their Pasos as the daises are called. The
whole story of the Passion from Gethsemane to the burial of our Lord, is
shown on them as they pass before our eyes.--Of course the clergy in
full canonicals, as well as the town and state officials are also
represented in the procession. At intervals, groups of Roman legionaries
of Christ’s day appear, then angels, and St. Veronica carrying the
kerchief. Interspersed bands bray and flourish the same march without
cess.
Each brotherhood in the procession is cerimoniously received by the
chief authority of the town in Constitution Square which looks like a
huge theatre auditorium. It is filled with rows of chairs of which not a
single one is empty. The surrounding balconies are a sea of heads.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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