Picturesque Spain: Architecture, landscape, life of the people. — John Shaqi
Picturesque Spain: Architecture, landscape, life of the people.Hielscher, Kurt
History
Picturesque Spain: Architecture, landscape, life of the people.
Hielscher, Kurt
Spain -- Description and travel
=The Palm Forest of Elché= (100-103). The only palm forest in Europe. It
numbers more than 115000 trees, and is also a Moorish heritage. They
caused the water to flow to this spot from a distance of 5 kilometres in
order to create an oasis here in the desert--for the district is to-day
little else. Palms must grow with their roots in the water and their
crowns in the glaring sun. For years no rain has fallen on this spot.
The view is strange from the church-tower down on white houses over
which the palm tops are spread like a canopy. Beyond the palm forest the
grey-yellow desert plain surrounds this isle of peace. In the far
distance the blue ocean sleeps in proud majesty. Death and life are here
in close juxtaposition.
* * * * *
=Easter in Seville.= The train is rushing southwards over the arid
Castillian high plateaux, which in summer are as empty as a beggar’s
palm. The bare treeless Mancha has put on its modest spring garment
which now shows in the distance like delicate green velvet. A
short-lived joy! In but a few weeks the scorched ground will again be
covered with a yellowish-gray pall.
At present the fresh breeze comes down from the mountains of the Sierra
de Guadarrama. Scarcely, however, has the train wound its way through
the wild cañons of the Sierra Modena, when spring opens wide her gate. A
warm damp hot-house atmosphere is wafted into the carriage windows.
We are soon surrounded by meadows that are like a great flower-garden in
which the blood-red poppy and golden-yellow primrose struggle for
supremacy. Once in a while a village is seen dreaming like Sleeping
Beauty among the flower groves. For a long stretch agaves and cacti
fringe the track. Finally Seville sends forth her messengers in the
shape of blossoming rose-gardens and orange groves laden with their ripe
golden fruit. An ancient mangolia stretches a rosy blossom branch
towards us, lingering on in its old age in this scene so full of
yearning life. Tall slim palms nod to us, and yet new children of Flora
crowd upon us to bring us Seville and spring’s friendly welcome.
Heedlessly the train clatters past all this beauty towards the white
maze of Seville’s houses, above which towers that beautiful emblem of
the town, the Giralda. At last the engine snorts noisily into the
station.
But how different is everything to-day in front of the station. No
yelling hotel porters, no carriages awaiting the passengers, no
electric-car with clanging bell, no hooting of motor-cars.--The square
is lifeless at this early afternoon hour. It is the “Semana santa",
Passion-week, that has cast this almost oppressive spell of silence over
the great city. Even the brazen voices of the church-bells are muffled,
as though that had gone into sacred mourning. The wooden banging of the
Matraca calls hoarsely to prayers with dry and unmelodious voice.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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