Pottery decoration under the glazeMcLaughlin, M. Louise (Mary Louise)
Science
Pottery decoration under the glaze
McLaughlin, M. Louise (Mary Louise)
Glazing (Ceramics); Pottery
The finish of this work must not be a full glaze, but the “smear”
glaze, described in the last chapter. A full glaze would fill up the
lines, and so injure the appearance of the work. In order that the
black lines may be effective, the ground of the decoration should be
rather light in color. The best colors for the body of wares to be
decorated in this way are light cream color, or a mixture of cream
color and red clay, producing a light brick-red; or, if they can
be procured, any light colored clays which have been artificially
tinted in the body. A colored ground for this work can be procured by
having the piece of ware dipped in colored slips. The design is then
incised upon the surface, after it has become dry enough, in the same
manner as before. The lines are cut through to the body of the ware
beneath, showing a color contrasting with that upon the surface with
good effect. Work of this kind is also executed upon stoneware. That
of Miss Hannah Barlow will be remembered as an instance of incised
work, in black lines, upon a red or light brown body. Incised work
also appears upon the Lambeth stoneware. It is here used upon grey
stoneware, with raised dots in white, and colored with blue glaze.
Incised decorations can also be executed upon earthenware in this
way. White ware may be used, and the design drawn upon it in the
“green” state. The piece may then be finished with colored glaze,
which sinks into the depressions formed by the lines, and so gives
them a darker color than the rest of the surface. Carved work can
also be introduced with good effect as an accessory to incised work,
and a few words as to this kind of decoration will now be in place.
CARVING IN CLAY.
This work can be made very beautiful and effective by those familiar
with the use of carving tools. The tools used should be short-handled
carving tools, and the ware should be in the “green” state and as
for incised work, neither too wet nor too dry. Dry enough for clean
cutting with the tools, and yet not so dry as to be brittle. When in
just the right state, clay forms a fine substance for carving. As
it dries very rapidly, means should be used to keep it sufficiently
moist until the work is finished.
The outline can be drawn upon the clay with a sharp-pointed modeling
tool, and the carving can be executed with gouges, chisels, and
parting tools of the various shapes and sizes necessary. Veining can
be done with a pointed modeling tool, and dots can be readily incised
by pressure on the surface. Raised dots can be made with softer clay
which has been dipped up in a quill of the required size, which is
then pressed upon the surface at the place where the dot is desired.
Carved work can be finished by the use of sand paper, a camel’s
hair brush, and water, or a sponge; but these should not be used
very freely, as they will injure the sharpness and cleanness of the
cutting, which it is desirable to preserve. Carving looks best when
finished with a “smear” glaze.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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