Practical Hand Book of Gas, Oil and Steam Engines: Stationary, Marine, Traction; Gas Burners, Oil Burners, Etc.; Farm, Traction, Automobile, Locomotive; A simple, practical and comprehensive book on the construction, operation and repair of all kinds of engines. Dealing with the various parts in detail and the various types of engines and also the use of different kinds of fuel.Rathbun, John B.
Science
Practical Hand Book of Gas, Oil and Steam Engines: Stationary, Marine, Traction; Gas Burners, Oil Burners, Etc.; Farm, Traction, Automobile, Locomotive; A simple, practical and comprehensive book on the construction, operation and repair of all kinds of engines. Dealing with the various parts in detail and the various types of engines and also the use of different kinds of fuel.
Rathbun, John B.
Internal combustion engines; Traction-engines
The engine is then started in the usual manner and, when running, the
igniter is changed to running position, and the magneto is tilted
outwardly. It is not important which is changed first, the magneto or
the igniter. It is easy to remember the “starting” and running
“position” of the magneto, the running position always being that in
which the magnetos are tilted in the direction opposite to that in which
the engine runs.
(99) Care of Low Tension Magnetos.
(1) Avoid setting a magneto on an iron or steel plate, unless stated
otherwise in the manufacturer’s directions, as in some makes the
magnetism will be short circuit by iron or steel and will reduce the
output.
(2) Do not jar magnets or magneto unnecessarily, for this tends to
weaken the magnets.
(3) Never remove the magnets if it can possibly be avoided. If this must
be done, mark the magnets and gears so that they may be replaced in
exactly the same position. If your magneto refuses to generate after
reassembling it is probable that they are reversed in position or that
the magnetism has been knocked out of them while off of the magneto.
(4) As soon as the magnets are removed, or better before, place a plate
of iron or steel across both ends of the magnet. Don’t leave the magnets
without this keeper for any length of time or they will lose their
magnetism. The best plan is to leave the magnets alone.
(5) Remember that the running clearance between the magnets and armature
is very small, only a few thousandths of an inch, and that any error in
replacing the bearings in their proper position will cause the armature
to bind in the tunnel. Handle armature carefully and do not lay it in a
dirty place as a bent shaft or grit in the armature tunnel will fix it
permanently.
(6) Most all magnetos are practically water proof, but don’t experiment
with the hose.
(7) Make all connections firmly and have the wire clean under the
binding posts.
(8) Only a few drops of oil are needed at long intervals, don’t neglect
to oil them, but above all do not drown them with oil.
(9) Examine the brush occasionally and clean off all oil and dirt.
(10) When replacing the magneto on the engine after its removal see that
the gears are meshed in the former position. Best to mark the teeth
before removal.
(100) High Tension Magnetos.
The “true” high tension type magneto is complete in itself, requiring no
jump spark coil nor timer, the high tension current being generated
directly in the coils carried by the armature. This arrangement reduces
the wiring problem to a minimum, as the only wires required are those
leading directly to the spark plugs, and one low tension wire connecting
the cutout switch used for stopping the engine.
[Illustration:
Fig. 105. Single Cylinder High Tension Bosch Magneto.
]
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