Prehistoric Textile Art of Eastern United States: Thirteenth Annual Report of the Beaurau of American Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution 1891-1892, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1896, pages 3-46Holmes, William Henry
History
Prehistoric Textile Art of Eastern United States: Thirteenth Annual Report of the Beaurau of American Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution 1891-1892, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1896, pages 3-46
Holmes, William Henry
Indian textile fabrics -- North America; Indians of North America -- Antiquities
Many of the women wear cloaks of the bark of the
mulberry-tree, or of the feathers of swans, turkies, or India
ducks. The bark they take from young mulberry shoots that
rise from the roots of trees that have been cut down; after
it is dried in the sun they beat it to make all the woody
part fall off, and they give the threads that remain a second
beating, after which they bleach them by exposing them to the
dew. When they are well whitened they spin them about the
coarseness of pack-thread, and weave them in the following
manner: they plant two stakes in the ground about a yard and
a half asunder, and having stretched a cord from the one to
the other, they fasten their threads of bark double to this
cord, and then interweave them in a curious manner into a
cloak of about a yard square with a wrought border round the
edges. * * * The girls at the age of eight or ten put on a
little petticoat, which is a kind of fringe made of threads
of mulberry bark.[35]
This is illustrated farther on.
The manner of weaving in the middle and upper Mississippi country is
described by Hunter, who, speaking of the Osage Indians and their
neighbors, says:
The hair of the buffalo and other animals is sometimes
manufactured into blankets; the hair is first twisted by
hand, and wound into balls. The warp is then laid of a length
to answer the size of the intended blanket, crossed by three
small smooth rods alternately beneath the threads, and
secured at each end to stronger rods supported on forks, at a
short distance above the ground. Thus prepared, the woof is
filled in, thread by thread, and pressed closely together, by
means of a long flattened wooden needle. When the weaving is
finished, the ends of the warp and woof are tied into knots,
and the blanket is ready for use. In the same manner they
construct mats from flags and rushes, on which, particularly
in warm weather, they sleep and sit.[36]
Fabrics of various kinds were employed in burial, although not generally
made for that purpose. The wrappings of dead bodies were often very
elaborate, and the consignment of these to tombs and graves where the
conditions were favorable to preservation has kept them for long periods
in a most perfect state. By exhumation we have obtained most of our
information on this subject. Our knowledge is, however, greatly
increased by descriptions of such burial customs as were witnessed in
early times. Extracts already given refer to the use of fabrics in
mortuary customs. Many others could be cited but the following seems
sufficient:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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