Prehistoric Textile Art of Eastern United States: Thirteenth Annual Report of the Beaurau of American Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution 1891-1892, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1896, pages 3-46 — John Shaqi
Prehistoric Textile Art of Eastern United States: Thirteenth Annual Report of the Beaurau of American Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution 1891-1892, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1896, pages 3-46Holmes, William Henry
History
Prehistoric Textile Art of Eastern United States: Thirteenth Annual Report of the Beaurau of American Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution 1891-1892, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1896, pages 3-46
Holmes, William Henry
Indian textile fabrics -- North America; Indians of North America -- Antiquities
A piece of fabric of much interest is presented in plate IV. It may be
an unfinished garment of the class shown in the preceding illustration,
but it is more likely a complete skirt, the narrow woven band with its
gathering string serving as a belt and the long fringe being the skirt.
The length at the gathered edge is 34 inches, and the pendant length is
20 inches. The material and the weaving are the same as in the piece of
cloth already described, although the work is somewhat coarser. A
detailed study of the border is given in figure 6, the vertical series
of threads being pulled apart to show more distinctly the manner of
combination.
[Illustration: FIG. 5.--Portion of mantle showing manner of weaving.]
[Illustration: FIG. 6.--Analysis of the weaving of fringed skirt. Threads
natural size.]
The two pieces just described would seem to correspond pretty closely
with the garments formerly worn by women and girls of the lower
Mississippi country, as illustrated by Du Pratz in a plate facing page
310, volume II, of his Histoire de la Louisiane. His plate is reproduced
in figure 7. The following are translations of his descriptions of the
garments delineated:
The women in warm weather have only a half ell of limbourg,
with which they are covered; they fold this cloth around the
body and are well clothed from the waist to the knees; when
they have no limbourg they use in the same way a deer
skin.[54].
When the girls reach the age of eight or nine years they are
clothed from the waist to the ankles with a fringe of threads
of mulberry bark, fastened to a band
[Illustration: BUREAU OF ETHNOLOGY THIRTEENTH ANNUAL REPORT PL. IV
FRINGED SKIRT.]
which is attached below the abdomen; there is also another
band above the abdomen which meets the first at the back;
between the two the body is covered in front by a network
which is held there by the bands, and at the back there are
merely two large cords, each having a tassel.[55]
[Illustration: FIG. 7.--Former costumes of woman and girl in Louisiana
(after Du Pratz).]
Of equal interest to the preceding is the badly frayed bag shown in
plate V. It is 20 inches in length and 13 inches in depth. The style of
weaving is the same as that of the two preceding examples; a peculiar
open effect is produced by the rotting out of certain strands of dark
color, which were arranged in pairs alternating with eight lighter
threads. The construction of the border or rim of this bag is quite
remarkable. As shown in figure 8, the upper ends of the vertical
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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