Prehistoric Textile Art of Eastern United States: Thirteenth Annual Report of the Beaurau of American Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution 1891-1892, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1896, pages 3-46 — John Shaqi
Prehistoric Textile Art of Eastern United States: Thirteenth Annual Report of the Beaurau of American Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution 1891-1892, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1896, pages 3-46Holmes, William Henry
History
Prehistoric Textile Art of Eastern United States: Thirteenth Annual Report of the Beaurau of American Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution 1891-1892, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1896, pages 3-46
Holmes, William Henry
Indian textile fabrics -- North America; Indians of North America -- Antiquities
The relics which have come into the possession of the Bureau were
obtained in 1885 by Mr. A. J. McGill from a rock shelter on "Clifty" or
Cliff Creek, Morgan county, Tennessee. Mr. J. W. Emmert, through whom
they were procured, reports that they were found in a grave 31/2 feet
below the surface and in earth strongly charged with niter and perhaps
other preservative salts. The more pliable cloths, together with skeins
of vegetal fiber, a dog's skull, some bone tools, and portions of human
bones and hair, were rolled up in a large split-cane mat. The grave was
situated about as shown in the accompanying section (figure 4). A shelf
some 20 feet in width, with depressed floor, occurs about midway between
the creek bed and the slightly overhanging ledge above, the whole height
being estimated at 300 feet.
[Illustration: BUREAU OF ETHNOLOGY THIRTEENTH ANNUAL REPORT PL. III
MANTLE OR SKIRT OF LIGHT-COLORED STUFF.]
The mat, a very excellent piece of work, is 6 feet 6 inches by 3 feet 4
inches. By reference to plate II it will be seen that it is neatly and
artistically made and quite well preserved. The strands are from
one-third to three-sixteenths of an inch in width and are even on the
edges and smoothly dressed on the back. The hard, glistening outer
surface of the cane is light in color and the dressed surface is dark
naturally or artificially, and the weaving is so managed that a tasteful
border and a checkered effect are produced by alternately exposing the
light and dark sides. This piece probably very fairly represents the
split-cane work of the whole cane-producing region. A similar piece of
work from the gulf coast is illustrated in figure 12.
[Illustration: FIG. 4.--Section of cliff showing position of grave
shelter.]
Inclosed with the mat were three pieces of fabric of especial interest,
all pertaining, no doubt, to the costume of the person buried. The piece
of cloth shown in plate III probably served as a mantle or skirt and is
46 inches long by 24 wide. It is of coarse, pliable, yellowish-gray
stuff, woven in the twined style so common all over America. The fiber
was doubtless derived from the native hemp, and the strands are neatly
twisted and about the size of average wrapping cord. The warp strands,
24 inches in length, extend across the piece; and on the left margin, as
seen in the illustration, they are looped for the passage of a gathering
string, while on the left they have been cut to form a short fringe. The
opposing series (the woof strands) have been passed through with the
length of the cloth in pairs, which are twisted half around at each
intersection, inclosing the web strands in alternating pairs as shown in
detail in figure 5. These twined strands are placed three-eights of an
inch apart, the web being so close that the fabric is but slightly open.
The twined strands are carried back and forth in groups of four as shown
at the ends in the plate, and are knotted as illustrated in the figure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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