Art, Prehistoric; Folk literature -- History and criticism
The disregard of the original pattern is such that in some specimens
(fig. 15) part of the design has been cut off in order to make the
sides fit together. In our illustration the parts cut off,—the right
upper corners,—have been reconstructed.
It might be said that similar conditions prevail in modern, patterned
fabrics that are made into garments. In this case the manufacturer
tries to attain a pleasing effect for the fabric as a whole. If economy
of material did not interfere, the tailor would fit the pattern
together, but we always feel the conflict between the pattern and the
requirements of the finished garment.
[Illustration: Fig. 16. Fringe from legging, Thompson Indians.]
As another example I mention a legging made by an Indian woman from
the interior of British Columbia. It bears the usual decoration,—a
long fringe along the outer seam. The fringe consists of a long piece
of curried skin cut in narrow strips. These strips are decorated in
rhythmic order (fig. 16), a string decorated by one glass bead and two
bone beads in alternating order is followed by a plain string, next
by one decorated with single alternating glass and bone beads, then a
plain one and finally one like the first. When we indicate the plain
and decorated strips by letters, we find the arrangement
. . . | A B C B A | A B C B A | . . .
repeated over and over again.[21] The important point to be noted is,
that when in use, the fringe hangs down without order along the outer
side of the leg so that the elaborate rhythmic pattern cannot be seen.
The only way in which the maker can get any satisfaction from her work
is while making it or when exhibiting it to her friends. When it is in
use there is no esthetic effect.
[21] James Teit, The Thompson Indians of British Columbia, Publications
of the Jesup North Pacific Expedition, New York 1900, Vol. I, p. 382;
see also Gladys A. Reichard, The Complexity of Rhythm in Decorative
Art, American Anthropologist N. S., Vol. 24 (1922), p. 198.
Other cases occur in which motives are applied that are practically
invisible. Thus in mattings from Vancouver Island, the weaver will
alternate the direction of the strands in squares without any attempt
to set off the surface in colors (fig. 17). When the matting is new
these patterns may be seen in reflected light, but after a very short
time they disappear almost completely.
[Illustration: Fig. 17. Twilled weaving showing alternation of
patterns.]
Similarly the woven patterns on arm rings from the Ucayali are
practically invisible.[22]
[22] Max Schmidt, Besondere Geflechtsart der Indianer im
Ucayaligebiete, Archiv für Anthropologie, N. S., Vol. VI (1907), p. 270.
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