Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur DyeingAustin, William E.
Science
Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing
Austin, William E.
Fur -- Dressing and dyeing
The formation of the Aniline Black in practise takes place in three
well-defined steps, which it is important to be able to recognize and
distinguish in order to obtain the best results. The first stage of the
oxidizing process produces what is called emeraldine, which in the acid
medium of the aniline bath is of a dark green, while in the free state it
is of a blue color. As the oxidation proceeds, the second stage develops,
the emeraldine being converted to a compound called nigraniline. This in
acid solution is blue, and the free base is a dark-blue, almost black.
It was formerly considered that the nigraniline was the Aniline Black
proper, and so when this stage of the oxidation was reached, the process
was often interrupted and not carried to the limit. This can account for
the fact that Aniline Black dyeings usually turned green after a short
time. The reason for this is that nigraniline, when treated with weak
reducing agents, as, for example, sulphurous acid, is at once changed
to emeraldine, with its dark green color. Since there is usually a small
amount of sulphurous acid in the air, especially in places where coal or
gas is burned, an Aniline Black dyeing which has not been carried beyond
the nigraniline stage will be reduced in time to the emeraldine, and cause
the dyeing to become green. The last step in the oxidation changes the
nigraniline into what is properly called the ungreenable Aniline Black.
Weak reducing substances like sulphurous acid do not change this compound
to emeraldine, and stronger reducing agents only convert it to a brownish
compound, which changes back to the black when exposed to the air. It is
quite evident that in order to obtain a black which will not change to
green in time, the oxidation of the aniline must be carried to the last
stage. By making tests during the dyeing of the furs, it can easily be
determined whether the oxidation has proceeded far enough.
In the dyeing of textiles with Aniline Black, it is customary to carry
out the operation at comparatively high temperatures, approaching 100°
centigrade. With furs such temperatures are out of the question, so it is
necessary to repeat the dyeing several times in order to obtain the proper
depth of shade working in the cold. Only the brush method can be used in
applying the Aniline Black dye to furs, on account of the strong acidity
of the dye mixture, which would ruin the leather, if the dyeing were done
in a bath. Indeed, great care must be exercised even by the brush method
to avoid too great penetration of the dye liquid, otherwise the roots
of the hair will be attacked, and the leather may be “burned” from the
hair side. Furs dyed with Aniline Black are frequently after-dyed by the
dip-process with logwood or some other similar dye, in order to add to
the brilliancy of the dyeing. Combined with intensity of color, Aniline
Black on furs is the only dye which will also give fast, lustrous shades,
and leave the hair soft and smooth.
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