Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur DyeingAustin, William E.
Science
Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing
Austin, William E.
Fur -- Dressing and dyeing
When raw skins are boiled with water, the greater part goes into solution,
the residue consisting chiefly of the keratins of the hair and epidermis
cells. On cooling, the solution solidifies to a jelly of gelatine. It
combines with both acids and alkalies. A property of the skin which is
of importance in the tanning operation of fur-dressing, and a quality
which also characterizes gelatine, is the capacity to absorb liquids
and swell up, without changing chemically. Raw pelts swell up easily
in pure cold water, but much more easily in solutions of dilute acids
or dilute alkalies, only a little of the skin material being dissolved.
In stronger solutions, the skins swell up less, while more of the skin
substance dissolves, and by prolonged action of strong acids or alkalies,
an almost complete solution of the skin is obtained, without, however,
any of the material decomposing. With very strong alkalies or acids,
the skin substance is broken up into simpler compounds, such as various
amines and ammonia. The swelling action of acids or of alkalies increases
with the increase in concentration of the acid or alkali, but only up
to a certain point, after which further increase in the strength of the
acid or alkaline solution causes a reduction in the swelling, and even
produces shrinkage. In the presence of neutral salts, like common table
salt, sodium chloride, the swelling action of acids, is reduced, but the
action of alkalies remains practically unaffected.
When treated with the various chemicals, fur hair acts in a manner quite
similar to wool. If it be remembered that certain classes of furs are
derived from animals of the sheep family, such furs as Persian lamb,
krimmer, etc., it becomes apparent why chemicals should affect furs in
nearly the same way as wool. The great majority of furs differ from those
of the sheep family, in possessing much greater resistance to the action
of chemicals. The range is a wide one however, and no exact criterion can
be adopted. As a general rule, the reactions are most marked with fur-hair
of a woolly nature, so this may be taken as a standard of reference.
Acids have relatively little action on the hair, when applied in dilute
solutions. The scales of the cuticle or epithelium are somewhat opened,
the fibre becoming slightly roughened thereby. Even at high temperatures,
the hair is quite resistant to the action of dilute acids. Concentrated
acids destroy the hair with the liberation or formation of ammonia,
hydrogen sulphide, and various amino acids. When treated with dilute
acids, the hair, especially if it is of a very woolly nature, retains
considerable quantities of acid, this phenomenon being probably due to
the fixation of the acid by the basic groups in the hair. Nitric acid
produces a yellow coloration when applied in dilute solution for a short
time. Sulphurous acid, the acid formed by the burning of sulphur, has a
bleaching action on the hair.
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