Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur DyeingAustin, William E.
Science
Principles and Practice of Fur Dressing and Fur Dyeing
Austin, William E.
Fur -- Dressing and dyeing
Alkalies attack the hair, even in dilute solutions, and by longer action
complete decomposition sets in, with formation of ammonia and amino-acids.
Ammonium carbonate, soap, and borax are practically harmless in their
effect on the hair. Sodium and potassium carbonates roughen the hair on
prolonged action, even in dilute solutions. Calcium hydroxide on continued
action removes sulphur from the hair, causing it to become brittle.
Salts of alkalies and alkaline earths do not affect the hair at all.
Salts of the heavy metals on the other hand, are absorbed in appreciable
quantities. From a dilute solution of alum, aluminum hydroxide is absorbed
by the hair, the potassium sulphate remaining in solution. Similarly with
copper, iron, and chromium salts, the metal oxides are fixed by the fibre.
CHAPTER III
FUR DRESSING
INTRODUCTORY AND HISTORICAL
Fur dressing has a twofold purpose. First of all, the putrefactive
processes must be permanently stopped, so that the skin may be
preserved as such, or worked up as some fur garment, without danger of
decomposition. Having taken measures to assure the endurance or relative
permanency of the pelt, the prime consideration is, of course, the
appearance of the hair. The hair must be so treated that all its inherent
beauty is brought out to the fullest extent. It must be made clean and
soft, and all the natural gloss must be preserved, and if possible,
enhanced. The appearance of the leather is relatively unimportant, since
it is not seen after the furs are made into garments. There are, however,
certain qualities which it is essential for the leather to possess after
being dressed, and these are, softness, lightness of weight, elasticity or
stretch, and a certain firmness or ‘feel.’ In other words the important
considerations in fur dressing are the employment of means, and the
exercise of care to preserve or even improve those characteristics of the
pelt which make it valuable.
The dressing of furs has many features in common with the manufacture
of leather, which is a kindred art. But whereas in fur dressing the
prime consideration is the appearance of the hair, and the leather is of
secondary importance, in the production of leather, the hair plays no part
at all, since it is entirely removed from the pelt. The fundamental points
of resemblance between leather manufacture and fur dressing are in those
processes and operations which are concerned with the preservation of the
leather, and rendering it in the proper condition for use.
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