Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed — John Shaqi
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd edNorman, Benjamin Moore
History
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed
The road, for the first sixteen miles, was over a low marshy country,
partially Macadamized, and raised in the form of a causeway; rather
rough, but smooth compared with very many of our own, even in the State
of New York. The sides were filled in with brush-wood as far as
Hunucuma, about sixteen miles from Sisal. We stopped here, at noon, two
hours, to give our faithful mules an opportunity to refresh, after a
sultry morning’s travel. This pleasant village stands about half way
between Sisal and Merida, and is surrounded by beautiful shrubbery. From
this town, which possesses little interest to the foreign tourist, the
open country appears to advantage; but it is not under a high state of
cultivation. The road hence to Merida is finished in a style that would
have done credit to the imperial enterprise of Hadrian. We passed
through several small villages, occupied principally by the huts of the
Indians, and, at five o’clock in the afternoon of the 22d instant,
arrived at the metropolis, thirty-six miles distance from the place of
landing, and drove up to the door of the amiable Doña Michaelé, who
keeps the only public house in the city—not for her own personal
advantage, as she informs her guests, but solely for their
accommodation. Blessings on her kind heart, although her professions of
philanthropy “something smacked, something grew too,” yet we believed
every word of them, and made ourselves perfectly at home in the shortest
possible time.
The residence of this lady stands in about the centre of the city,
occupying a large space of ground, is one story high, with ranges of
rooms and stables, forming a square, which is filled with fruit-trees of
the tropics. The rooms are spacious and airy: they have large doors, and
balconied windows, grated, but without glass. The floors are laid with
stone, set in mortar. Of the Doña and her table, I may be permitted to
say, that when I paid my bill I felt that I had cancelled all the
obligations which her bounty had imposed upon me. Chocolate, with
“panadulza,” a sweet bread made by the nuns, is served early in the
morning, according to the general custom of the country; breakfast is
ready at nine o’clock, made up of Spanish American dishes, composed of
strips of meat, eggs, tortillas, and frejoles, (that is, corncake and
black beans,) with coffee and wine. Her guests consisted of two
Americans besides myself, who came here to trade, and remained, not to
pray, but to be preyed upon by the most dismal prospects—three Mexican
officers, who were exiled by Santa Ana; and three Spanish Jews, who were
from Havana, with merchandise. Dinner was served at three o’clock. The
Doña undoubtedly gave her boarders the best the market afforded, for she
certainly exerted herself to render them satisfied with their fare. It
would be absurd to enumerate dishes, and to object to the style of
cooking because it did not happen to be in accordance with my own
preferences or habits.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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