Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd edNorman, Benjamin Moore
History
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed
Among the Mexicans of our company, however, it
may not be improper to remark, that etiquette in the disposition of
their food was but little observed; and knives and forks were
unceremoniously thrown aside for the more primitive utensils with which
nature had provided them.
The 23d of December was the festival of St. Christoval. It was made,
like all the saints’ days in Catholic countries, a gala-day. Measures
were taken accordingly, a week previous, to give to this festival its
full effect. In front of the church is a large square, around the sides
of which were placed poles and staging, forming an amphitheatre, adorned
with rude paintings of various animals, and dressed off with flags and
evergreens; the area of which was to be the scene of a modern
_bull-fight_. The morning was ushered in by the firing of guns and
squibs. The stores were closed, churches opened, bells ringing, and the
population was literally emptied into the streets. At twelve o’clock
signal rockets were fired, and the gates of the amphitheatre, which
appeared to be the principal point of attraction, were thrown open, and
a bull was led in by four Indians. Indians, mounted on horses, attacked
him with spears, whilst others goaded him almost to madness with barbed
sticks. A great noise was made with drums and horns, and by the
acclamations of the audience, composed of ladies and gentlemen of Merida
and its vicinity. The major part, however, of the assembly was composed
of Indians. This portion of the festival was continued during the day;
at the close of which the amphitheatre was deserted, and the neighboring
houses were filled with people, abandoning themselves to the excitements
of every variety of games, and to the dance.
This was the first bull-bait I had ever witnessed, and the impression it
left upon me I shall never forget. These spectacles, however, have been
so often and so graphically described by others, that it would be almost
presumption in me to attempt a description of the scene, or an analysis
of my own feelings. The performance disgusted me to a degree, and has
struck me as one of the most extraordinary psychological phenomena in
nature, that any body of human beings could be found to whom such
exhibitions should be, as they are to the Spanish, sources of the
deepest interest and excitement.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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