Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd edNorman, Benjamin Moore
History
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed
The next day was Sunday, and concluded the feast of St. Christoval. The
churches were crowded, as is usual, during the morning; but the majority
of the multitude that attended the service consisted of females, mostly
Indian. In the afternoon we proceeded towards the church of St.
Christoval, for the purpose of witnessing the closing scene of a
festival which is finished by a procession. Before reaching our
destination, however, we met it, and took a position in a door-way, the
better to observe it and be out of the crowd. It was headed by eight or
ten Indians, with long brass and tin horns, making the most discordant
sounds imaginable. Then followed Indian boys, drumming on hollow pieces
of wood, squalid and dirty in their appearance, and who were the only
ones of a like character that presented themselves to view among the
immense multitude. Next came the priests, chanting for the saints, and
waving the burning incense, followed by drums and fifes in advance of a
large image of the Virgin, decked in various colors, interspersed with
tinsel ornaments, surmounted with glass vases, in which a lighted candle
or a bouquet of flowers was alternately placed. This imposing display
was borne upon the shoulders of eight Indians, surrounded by priests.
The rear was brought up by a company of soldiers with fixed bayonets;
the whole surrounded by an immense crowd, filling up the streets for a
great distance. All were uncovered, and many knelt during the haltings
of the procession, which were purposely frequent, so as to enable the
people to salute the image. This grand display occupied about three
hours, the procession passing through the principal streets and back to
the church, where it was dismissed. The whole dispersed with the utmost
quietness; some to their homes, and others to places of gaming and
dancing.
In returning to our lodgings we met a calesa, preceded by two Indians
with lanterns, tinkling small bells, followed by four Indian soldiers,
armed with muskets. The carriage contained a priest, who was going to
administer holy unction. The people, as is the universal custom here,
knelt as he passed. To obviate a similar necessity, we retreated into
the nearest house; thereby escaping a charge of heresy, and the
unpleasantness of coming in contact with muddy streets.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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