Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd edNorman, Benjamin Moore
History
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed
To-day I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of several
gentlemen of the place, who gave me a most cordial reception; among whom
was the President of Yucatan. He is a successful merchant, a plain,
unassuming, practical man; apparently, however, not much versed in
political intrigues. The people have recently declared themselves
independent of Mexico, and the government is now about sending
commissioners to the capital of that republic to treat with Santa Ana,
offering again to return to the Mexican Confederacy upon certain
conditions; which, if acceded to, will give to this province most
decided advantages, besides being still under the protection of the
Confederacy.
Christmas eve we passed upon the Alameda, the public promenade of the
city. The occasion brought together the great mass of the population.
The ladies were prettily dressed, with veils tastefully thrown over
their heads; and a beautiful moonlight evening was rendered still more
charming by their smiles. The great majority were Indians. Their white,
loose, cotton dress, bordered with colored needlework, with the janty
veil, carelessly worn, gives them an airy appearance, and embellishes
features that are naturally pleasant and mild. There probably were six
thousand Indians in this collection, mingling with the multitude,
without any apparent distinction of rank or race, quietly indulging
themselves in their walks. No loud talking or noisy merriment could be
heard. Everything appeared to be conducted in a spirit of harmony and
kind feeling. The temperance pledge was alike unnecessary and unknown.
At twelve o’clock (midnight) the crowd dispersed; a portion of them to
the cathedral, to attend the performance of high mass. An immense crowd
was assembled in this place. The aisles, domes, and fretted work of the
windows were illuminated. The sound of music and the voice of the priest
only were heard—all else was silence. The multitude knelt. It was an
imposing sight—the dark ages were forgotten; and the prejudices of a
thousand years were subdued in a moment. At two o’clock I left the
cathedral and returned to my lodgings, with more liberal feelings, and a
better man.
Christmas, as a holy-day, is strictly observed by the general suspension
of business, and service is performed at all the churches, as in most
other Catholic countries. The only exception to this uniformity perhaps
consists in the devotional ceremonies usually offered to a cross affixed
to the walls of the Bishop’s palace, which rites concluded the religious
offices of the day. These services were performed by the Indians—and
give but too painful evidence of the influence of their priesthood.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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