Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd edNorman, Benjamin Moore
History
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed
At three o’clock in the afternoon, there is an almost total suspension
of business. The stores, generally, are closed, and the inhabitants
betake themselves to their hammocks, to the enjoyment of their favorite
siesta, which consists of a nap of an hour or more; an indulgence as
indispensable to a Mexican as his cigar. The calesa is the only
wheel-carriage that is to be found in the streets. Indian porters take
the place of drays, and are seen carrying barrels and bales upon their
backs, secured by a plaited rope passed over their foreheads. Being
accustomed, from childhood, to this kind of labor, they are enabled to
take loads of extraordinary weight, and to convey them to a great
distance with an ease that is really wonderful.
The climate of Merida, though very dry, and not subject to great
changes, is productive of febrile diseases at all seasons of the year,
from which even the natives are not exempted. Their bilious, much
resembles the yellow fever; and, in many cases, proves fatal. The fever
and ague is no stranger here. Pulmonary complaints are common, and
consumption carries off many. This malady most frequently shows itself
after severe attacks of the fever and ague, and makes a conquest of its
victim in a very short period.
The principal, as well as the most prominent, of the public buildings,
are the churches. The cathedral is a structure that would attract the
attention of the traveller in any part of the world. It was erected in
the sixteenth century. Its architecture is of the ecclesiastical style
of that age; and, altogether, it has a most commanding appearance. It
has well-proportioned domes, pinnacles, turrets, and lofty windows; and
it occupies, with the palace of the bishop of Yucatan, one entire side
of the most important square of the city. The interior is imposing, from
its numerous and splendidly decorated shrines. Its vaulted roof,
supported by immense stone pillars, gives it an air of solemn grandeur
peculiarly applicable to the ceremonies that are daily performed within
its precincts. The arms of Mexico are displayed upon the exterior front
of the building, which is finished with stone and stucco, with saints in
basso-relievo.
The bishop’s palace, adjoining, is plain. It is of two stories high,
painted green; and is accessible by a gateway opening into a court, over
which are emblazoned the crosier and mitre. The doors and windows are
much dilapidated. The title of a palace is somewhat of a misnomer for
this edifice, if one were to judge from its external appearance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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