Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed — John Shaqi
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd edNorman, Benjamin Moore
History
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed
There are fourteen church establishments within the city and its
suburbs; they, generally, are well built; and many of them are
remarkable for the power and influence of their particular saints—in
popular estimation. For instance, that of St. Anne is one which the
ladies frequent, to pray for good husbands. Whether the gentlemen go
there to ask for similar blessings, I did not learn; but I was informed
through a source that it would be impolite to doubt, that, in many
instances, the petition of the lonely spinster has been most favorably
received. In this church is a large collection of bone and wax figures,
representing the various limbs of the human body; as, also, crutches,
left there by invalids as offerings to the tutelar saint (St. Barbe) who
has favorably heard their supplications. Models of vessels are deposited
here by those who have been preserved from imminent danger at sea,
through, as the devotees suppose, the efficacy of their appeals and
sacrifices to the saint.
We observed, on entering the church, parts of a human skeleton set near
the vase of holy water; put there, possibly, that all might see and be
reminded that “to this condition we must come at last!” Whether the
priests intended that they should convey a moral, as did those in use
among the ancient Egyptians, or placed them there for other purposes,
could not conveniently be ascertained. Be that as it may, they have an
imposing effect. The taste generally displayed in these churches is not
very pleasing to the eye of a stranger. The images of our Saviour are
rude figures, and what made them appear still worse was, that they were
decorated according to the prevailing fashion of the country; a style
which was calculated to awaken any other than reverential emotions.
New Year’s eve found me on the Alameda, (the promenade of the city,)
where I mingled with the multitude which had collected to enjoy the
pleasantness of the evening at this, the most delightful season of the
year in Yucatan.
On the morning of New Year, 1842, I went early to the cathedral. Dense
masses of Indians, principally females, in their plain cleanly dress,
tastefully arranged, were assembled around the different shrines at
which the priests were officiating. When I returned to breakfast, I met
my fellow-companions of the house at table; but there were none of those
outpourings of good feelings, those kind wishes of happiness that, in
former days, were wont to meet me in the land of my birth. For one
hearty greeting of “a happy New Year!” I would have given for the sake
of “auld lang syne,” most cheerfully would I have given—“a thousand
returns!” But “New Year’s,” alas! is no festival day of the heart in
Merida.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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