Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd edNorman, Benjamin Moore
History
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed
The ball, as I have already remarked, was given at the Governor’s house,
which occupies a portion of the great square. The room was about fifty
feet long by fifteen wide. The floor was of mortar; the ceilings high
and roughly finished. The walls were ornamented with framed engravings,
and the windows hung with white cotton curtains. A fine supper was
provided; but I left the ball at an early hour, and jostled my way to my
lodgings through an immense crowd of Indians, of both sexes, attracted
by the festivities which I was just leaving.
Within the precincts of Merida, there is a regular monastery sustained
by about twelve monks. In my rambles I passed the door of one of the
friars, who invited me to walk in. He was a middle-aged man, clad in the
usual garb of his order; a loose dress, and sandals tied about his
ankles with cords. His hair was cut rounding; giving it the air of a
Scotch bonnet resting lightly upon the top of his head. He was not only
very polite, but a very learned man. In spite of my sterner judgment, I
could not but sympathize with him, as he dilated upon the historical
recollections of the old and notorious order to which he had attached
himself in his youthful days. As he spoke of it in its glory, his
enthusiasm broke forth with an almost inspired eloquence.
His room was large and airy, and appeared to have been arranged for a
study. It was furnished with two chairs and a table. A few Spanish and
Latin works were lying around. He conducted us through the long halls
and corridors of the monastery, and described to us the various
paintings that covered the walls. They were principally representations
of his tutelar saint, in the different periods of his eventful life,
from his birth to his death; also, of the crucifixion of our Saviour. At
a distance they might resemble pictures; but, on approaching them, the
charm fled. They proved to be most execrable daubs.
The church attached to the monastery is well worth a visit. It has an
immense shrine, formed by a group of figures in alto-relievo, large as
life, representing saints and angels, and all profusely ornamented with
gold and silver. One of the chapters of the church contains a
representation of the crucifixion carved upon stone, beautiful, both for
its design and its execution. It was found by the Spaniards on the
island of Cozumel, the place where Cortez first landed, and has caused
much speculation as to its origin. On returning to the room of our
worthy guide, chocolate was served; and a conversation for an hour
ensued upon the condition of the clergy of the United States, which
arose from an inquiry into the _number and denomination of our
monasteries_! I left him alone within his cheerless walls, and wended my
way back to my home; each of us, no doubt, preferring his own situation
to the other’s. I can at least speak authentically as to one.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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