Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd edNorman, Benjamin Moore
History
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed
I continued my rambles in the suburbs on the following day. Here,
dilapidation and ruin, and the want of cultivation, are too palpable.
Churches built centuries ago, and now surrounded only by a few poor
Indian huts, form a sad but instructive commentary upon the
insufficiency of arbitrary power, under the control of a religious
hierarchy, to develope the intellectual or the physical resources of a
people. Decay and desolation have overtaken all those institutions of an
elder time, which now but serve, like the footsteps upon the shore of a
deserted island, to prove the former presence of a more vigorous
civilization. The hand of man has rarely interfered to protect these
solemn memorials from oblivion. The grounds around them are but little
cultivated, and are mostly covered by a thick growth of furze, with an
occasional cocoa, orange, or tamarind tree. Here, however, the _ramon_
grows to a great height, and is very valuable, its leaves and branches
affording a nutricious food for horses.
About two miles from the city is a cemetery, appropriated to the dead of
Merida. It is located in a beautiful situation; but, like most other
public places in this country, it has been utterly neglected. It
comprehends about half an acre of land, surrounded by a high wall; and
is under the charge of a Catholic priest, who resides upon the premises.
Those who can afford it are provided with vaults, built upon the surface
of the ground. The poor are interred beneath the soil. The priest in
charge does not seem to have permitted his solemn vicinage to disturb
his digestion or dampen his spirits. His sleek and portly appearance
reminded me, at once, of the “fat, round, oily little man of God,” whose
repose Thomson disturbs in his Castle of Indolence. He was kind and
attentive in showing the premises; but his conversation was very feeble,
and indicated a mind almost demented with superstition.
The thermometer now, though the middle of January, ranges at about
eighty. We have occasional showers, but the weather continues to be
delightful. The mornings and evenings are perfectly enchanting. The
climate is not so uniform as that of Cuba; rains are more frequent, and
the dews more abundant. Colds and influenzas are common; and on this
account it cannot, I think, be recommended to invalids with pulmonary
affections.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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