Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd edNorman, Benjamin Moore
History
Rambles in Yucatan; or, Notes of Travel Through the Peninsula: Including a Visit to the Remarkable Ruins of Chi-Chen, Kabah, Zayi, and Uxmal. 2nd ed
Connected with one of the monasteries of the Jesuits, is the Church of
Jesus. It has partially lost its ancient splendor by the removal of
valuable plate and embellishments, which formerly belonged to it; and I
should not detain my readers with a notice of it here, but for a most
singular religious ceremony which I was permitted to witness within its
walls during vespers. The congregation was composed principally of
Indians. After the usual ceremonies were concluded, a large Indian
prostrated himself upon the floor before the altar, carefully adjusted
his limbs, and laid himself out as if he were preparing for burial. Men,
with coils of rope about their heads, representing crowns of thorns,
dressed in loose garments, and bending under the weight of a heavy
cross, then entered and tottered up the aisles. A cross and scull were
then passed around; the bearer repeating in Latin, as they were handed
to be kissed, “This is the death, and this is the judgment!” When this
form had been concluded, we were all supplied with whips, (I declined to
avail myself of their politeness,) the lights were extinguished, and all
was darkness. Nothing was visible but the gigantic windows, and the
outlines of the stupendous arches and fretted walls above us. The
chamber of death was never more silent than was that church for the
moment. While I was speculating upon what would probably occur next in
the order of exercises, my meditations were suddenly interrupted by the
sounds of stripes rising and echoing through every part of the vast
edifice. That there was whipping going on, I had no doubt; but whether
each one did his own whipping, or had it done by his neighbors, I was,
for some time, unable to satisfy myself; but I soon discovered that the
former was the case, upon the presumption, doubtless, that each one knew
how much his case required better than any one else. This penitential
ceremony continued for the space of fifteen minutes, at least, without
intermission. When it ceased, which was at the tinkling of a bell, the
candles were relighted, and the assemblage slowly left the church,
apparently perfectly satisfied that they had received no more than they
deserved.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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