Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
As one approaches, the aspect of this bizarre edifice is indeed
surprising, rising abruptly, though not to a very imposing height, from
the flat, sandy, marshy plain at its feet. The foundation of the church
here was due to the appearance of Christianity among the Gauls at a very
early period; but, like the pagan temple of an earlier day, all vestiges
of this first Christian monument have disappeared, destroyed, it is
said, by the Saracens. A noble--whose name appears to have been
forgotten--built a new church here in the tenth century, which took the
form of a citadel as a protection against further piratical invasion. At
the same time a few houses were built around the haunches of the
fortress-church, for the inhabitants of this part of the Camargue were
only too glad to avail themselves of the shelter and protection which it
offered.
In a short time a _petite ville_ had been created and was given the name
of Notre Dame de la Barque, in honour of the arrival in Gaul at this
point of “..._les saintes femmes Marie Magdeleine, Marie Jacobé, Marie
Salomé, Marthe et son frère Lazare, ainsi que de plusieurs disciples du
Sauveur_.” They were the same who had been set adrift in an open boat
off the shores of Judea, and who, without sails, oars, or nourishment,
in some miraculous manner, had drifted here. The tradition has been well
guarded by the religious and civic authorities alike, the arms of the
town bearing a representation of a shipwrecked craft supported by female
figures and the legend “_Navis in Pelago_.”
On the occasion of the fête, on the 24th of May, there are to be
witnessed many moving scenes among the pilgrims of all ages who have
made the journey, many of them on foot, from all over Provence. Like the
pardons of Brittany, the fête here has much the same significance and
procedure. There is much processioning, and praying, and exhorting, and
burning of incense and of candles, and afterward a _défilé_ to the sands
of the seashore, some two kilometres away, and a “_bénédiction des
troupeaux_,” which means simply that the blessings that are so commonly
bestowed upon humanity by the clergy are extended on these occasions to
take in the animal kind of the Camargue plain, on whom so many of the
peasants depend for their livelihood. It seems a wise and thoughtful
thing to do, and smacks no more of superstition than many traditional
customs.
After the religious ceremonies are over, the “_fête profane_” commences,
and then there are many things done which might well enough be frowned
down; bull-baiting, for instance. The entire spectacle is unique in
these parts, and every whit as interesting as the most spectacular
pardon of Finistère.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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