Rambles on the RivieraMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
General
Rambles on the Riviera
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Riviera (France) -- Description and travel
At the actual mouth of the Rhône is Port St. Louis, from which the
economists expect great things in the development of mid-France,
particularly of those cities which lie in the Rhône valley. The idea is
not quite so chimerical as that advanced in regard to the possibility of
moving all the great traffic of Marseilles to the Étang de Berre; but it
will be some years before Port St. Louis is another Lorient or Le Havre.
In spite of this, Port St. Louis has grown from a population of eight
hundred to that of a couple of thousands in a generation, which is an
astonishing growth for a small town in France.
The aspect of the place is not inspiring. A signal-tower, a lighthouse,
a Hôtel de Ville,--which looks as though it might be the court-house of
some backwoods community in Missouri,--and the rather ordinary houses
which shelter St. Louis’s two thousand souls, are about all the tangible
features of the place which impress themselves upon one at first glance.
Besides this there is a very excellent little hotel, a veritable _hôtel
du pays_, where you will get the fish of the Mediterranean as fresh as
the hour they were caught; and the _mouton de la Camargue_, which is the
most excellent mutton in all the world (when cooked by a Provençal
_maître_); potatoes, of course, which most likely came in a trading
Catalan bark from Algeria; and tomatoes and dates from the same place;
to say nothing of melons--home-grown. It’s all very simple, but the
marvel is that such a town in embryo as Port St. Louis really is can do
it so well, and for this reason alone the visitor will, in most cases,
think the journey from Arles worth making, particularly if he does it
_en auto_, for the fifty odd kilometres are like a sanded, hardwood
floor or a cinder path, and the landscape, though flat, is by no means
deadly dull. Furthermore there is no one to say him nay if the driver
chooses to make the journey _en pleine vitesse_.
Bordering upon the Camargue, just the other side of the Rhône, is
another similar tract: the Crau, a great, pebbly plain, supposed to have
come into being many centuries before the beginning of our era. The
hypotheses as to its formation are numerous, the chief being that it was
the work of that mythological Hercules who cut the Strait of Gibraltar
between the Mounts Calpe and Abyle (this, be it noted, is the French
version of the legend). Not content with this wonder, he turned the
Durance from its bed, as it flowed down from the Alps of Savoie, and a
shower of stones fell from the sky and covered the land for miles
around, turning it into a barren waste. For some centuries the tract
preserved the name of “Champs Herculéen.” The reclaiming of the tract
will be a task of a magnitude not far below that which brought it into
being.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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