Any or all of these will furnish the genuine traveller with emotions and sensations far more pleasurable than those to be had at the most blasé resort that ever opened a golf-links or set up a roulette-wheel, which, to many, are the chief attractions (and memories) of that strip of Mediterranean coast-line known as the Riviera. The scheme of this book had long been thought out, and much material collected at odd visits, but at last it could be delayed no longer, and the whole was threaded together by hundreds of miles of travel, _en automobile_, through the highways and byways of the region. The pictures were made “on the spot,” and, as living, tangible records of things seen, have, perhaps, a quality of appealing interest that is not possessed by the average illustration. The result is here presented for the value it may have for the traveller or the stay-at-home, it being always understood that no great thing was attempted and little or nothing presented that another might not see or learn for himself. The reason for being, then, of this book is that it does give a little different view-point of the attractions of Maritime Provence and the Mediterranean Riviera from that to be hitherto gleaned in any single volume on the subject, and as such it is to be hoped that it serves its purpose sufficiently well to merit consideration. F. M. CHÂTEAUNEUF-LES-MARTIGUES, _January, 1906_. [Illustration: _CONTENTS_] CONTENTS PAGE APOLOGIA v PART I. CHAPTER I. A PLEA FOR PROVENCE 3 II. THE PAYS D’ARLES 24 III. ST. RÉMY DE PROVENCE 42 IV. THE CRAU AND THE CAMARGUE 56 V. MARTIGUES: THE PROVENÇAL VENICE 70 VI. THE ÉTANG DE BERRE 87 VII. A SEASCAPE: FROM THE RHÔNE TO MARSEILLES 107 VIII. MARSEILLES--COSMOPOLIS 122 IX. A RAMBLE WITH DUMAS AND MONTE CRISTO 144 X. AIX-EN-PROVENCE AND ABOUT THERE 156 PART II. I. MARSEILLES TO TOULON 177 II. OVER CAP SICIÉ 202 III. THE REAL RIVIERA 226 IV. HYÈRES AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD 239 V. ST. TROPEZ AND ITS “GOLFE” 254 VI. FRÉJUS AND THE CORNICHE D’OR 271 VII. LA NAPOULE AND CANNES 292 VIII. ANTIBES AND THE GOLFE JOUAN 305 IX. GRASSE AND ITS ENVIRONS 319 X. NICE AND CIMIEZ 330 XI. VILLEFRANCHE AND THE FORTIFICATIONS 348