XII. EZE AND LA TURBIE 359 XIII. OLD MONACO AND NEW MONTE CARLO 370 XIV. MENTON AND THE FRONTIER 398 APPENDICES 409 INDEX 431 [Illustration: _LIST of_ ILLUSTRATIONS] PAGE ON THE RIVIERA _Frontispiece_ “IT WAS SEPTEMBER, AND IT WAS PROVENCE” facing 8 A YOUNG ARLESIENNE facing 36 ABBEY OF MONTMAJOUR AND VINEYARD 39 BAKER’S TALLY-STICKS 48 ST. RÉMY facing 48 A PANETIÈRE 52 THE BULLS OF THE CAMARGUE 59 LES SAINTES MARIES facing 60 ÉGLISE DE LA MADELEINE, MARTIGUES facing 70 HOUSE OF M. ZIEM, MARTIGUES facing 74 MARTIGUES 77 LOUP 86 ISTRES facing 92 THE KILOMETRE WEST OF SALON 102 BOUCHES-DU-RHÔNE TO MARSEILLES (MAP) 108 FOS-SUR-MER 111 CHATEAUNEUF facing 112 ROADSIDE CHAPEL, ST. PIERRE 114 FLOWER MARKET, COURS ST. LOUIS 129 A CABANON facing 134 MARSEILLES IN 1640 (MAP) 141 NOTRE DAME DE LA GARDE AND THE HARBOUR OF MARSEILLES facing 148 ENVIRONS OF MARSEILLES (MAP) 150 CHÂTEAU D’IF facing 150 LES PENNES facing 160 ROQUEVAIRE 166 CONVENT GARDEN, ST. ZACHARIE facing 170 MARSEILLES TO TOULON (MAP) 176 CASSIS facing 180 LA CIOTAT AND THE BEC DE L’AIGLE 185 ST. NAZAIRE-DU-VAR facing 198 FISHING-BOATS AT TAMARIS facing 208 IN TOULON’S OLD PORT facing 212 TOULON TO FRÉJUS (MAP) 220 IN LES MAURES facing 222 COMPARATIVE THEOMETRIC SCALE 230 THE TERRACE, MONTE CARLO facing 234