They were now in the middle of this lowland, Ramuntcho and his band,
half dozing under the dawning light. The colors of things began to
appear, out of the gray of night. They glided, they advanced by slight
jerks, now through yellow velvet which was sand, then through a brown
thing, striped regularly and dangerous to walkers, which was slime.
And thousands of little puddles, left by the tide of the day before,
reflected the dawn, shone on the soft extent like mother-of-pearl
shells. On the little yellow and brown desert, their boatman followed
the course of a thin, silver stream, which represented the Bidassoa at
low tide. From time to time, some fisherman crossed their path, passed
near them in silence, without singing as the custom is in rowing, too
busy poling, standing in his bark and working his pole with beautiful
plastic gestures.
While they were day-dreaming, they approached the French shore, the
smugglers. On the other side of the strange zone which they were
traversing as in a sled, that silhouette of an old city, which fled from
them slowly, was Fontarabia; those highlands which rose to the sky
with figures so harsh, were the Spanish Pyrenees. All this was Spain,
mountainous Spain, eternally standing there in the face of them and
incessantly preoccupying their minds: a country which one must reach in
silence, in dark nights, in nights without moonlight, under the rain of
winter; a country which is the perpetual aim of dangerous expeditions; a
country which, for the men of Ramuntcho's village, seems always to close
the southwestern horizon, while it changes in appearance according to
the clouds and the hours; a country which is the first to be lighted by
the pale sun of mornings and which masks afterward, like a sombre screen
the red sun of evenings.--
He adored his Basque land, Ramuntcho,--and this morning was one of the
times when this adoration penetrated him more profoundly. In his after
life, during his exile, the reminiscence of these delightful returns at
dawn, after the nights of smuggling, caused in him an indescribable and
very anguishing nostalgia. But his love for the hereditary soil was not
as simple as that of his companions. As in all his sentiments, as in all
his sensations, there were mingled in it diverse elements. At first the
instinctive and unanalyzed attachment of his maternal ancestors to the
native soil, then something more refined coming from his father, an
unconscious reflection of the artistic admiration which had retained the
stranger here for several seasons and had given to him the caprice of
allying himself with a girl of these mountains in order to obtain a
Basque descendance.--
CHAPTER III.
It is eleven o'clock now, and the bells of France and Spain mingle above
the frontier their religious festival vibrations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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