Authors, American -- 19th century -- Biography; Feminists -- United States -- Biography; Howe, Julia Ward, 1819-1910
My head was dressed for this occasion by Martel, a dainty half Spanish
or French octoroon, endowed with exquisite taste, a ready wit, and a
saucy tongue. He was the Figaro of the time, and his droll sayings were
often quoted among his lady customers. The hair was then worn low at the
back of the head, woven into elaborate braids and darkened with French
_pomade_, while an ornament called a _féronière_ was usually worn upon
the forehead or just above it. This was sometimes a string of pearls
with a diamond star in the middle, oftener a gold chain or band
ornamented with a jewel. The fashion, while it prevailed, was so general
that evening dress was scarcely considered complete without it.
Not long after the dinner party just mentioned, my eldest brother
married the eldest daughter of the Astor family. I officiated at the
wedding as first bridesmaid, a sister of the bride and one of my own
completing the number. The bride wore a dress of rich white silk, and
was coiffed with a scarf of some precious lace, in lieu of a veil. On
her forehead shone a diamond star, the gift of her grandfather, Mr. John
Jacob Astor. The bridesmaids' dresses were of white _moire_, then a
material of the newest fashion. I had begged my father to give me a
_féronière_ for this occasion, and he had presented me with a very
pretty string of pearls, having a pearl pansy and drop in the centre.
This fashion, I afterwards learned, was very ill suited to the contour
of my face. At the time, however, I had the comfort of supposing that I
looked uncommonly well. The ceremony took place in the evening at the
house of the bride's parents. A very elaborate supper was afterwards
served, at which the first groomsman proposed the health of the bride
and groom, which was drunk without response. A wedding journey was not a
_sine qua non_ in those days, but a wedding reception was usual. In this
instance it took the form of a brilliant ball, every guest being in turn
presented to the bride. On the floor of the ball-room a floral design
had been traced in colored chalks. The evening was at its height when my
father gravely admonished me that it was time to go home. Paternal
authority was without appeal in those days.
In my character of bridesmaid, I was allowed to attend one or two of the
entertainments given in honor of this marriage. The gayeties of New York
were then limited to balls, dinners, and evening parties. The afternoon
tea was not invented until a much later period. One or two extra
_élégantes_ received on stated afternoons. My dear uncle John, taking up
a card left for me, with the inscription, "Mrs. S. at home on Thursday
afternoon," remarked, "At home on Thursday afternoon? I am glad to learn
that she is so domestic." This lady, who was a leading personage in the
social world, used also to receive privileged friends on one evening in
the week, giving only a cup of chocolate and some cakes or biscuits.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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