Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
In misty weather the foot of the Central Gully was often difficult
to locate, even though the climber happened to be sitting at it.
Recognition is now a simple matter, for a huge boulder has fallen
and bridged the foot of the gorge most picturesquely. Other slight
alterations have also occurred in the bed of the gully. For instance,
more holds have developed on the steep crack in the middle part of
the gully, where the usual easy route slants up to the left to the
Staircase Pitch. The ascent of this crack is now frequently made.
For those who do not essay the ‘Direct Finish’ there is a steep but
not difficult crack just to the left of the great nose of rock which
so boldly divides the upper part of the Central Gully. The ordinary
route is still further to the left, but there are variations galore
hereabouts.
’Tis a far cry from Wastdale to the head of MOSEDALE to find an
outcrop of wet slabs less than 200 feet high. Yet several parties of
enthusiasts have developed the art of finding diminutive new climbs in
remote corners. There are two main rifts splitting the Mosedale Rocks.
These are known as the East and the West Cracks. The former is the more
difficult of the two; in fact, the pitch near the top would seem to
require the use of a lowered rope from some friends above if the ascent
is to be made safely. It has not yet been climbed without this aid. At
least two routes have also been found directly on the face between the
two cracks, and two smaller rifts to the right of the East Crack have
been added to the list of conquests. All are well marked and easier
to find than to climb, for the experts of the Fell and Rock-Climbing
Club, usually under the skilled leadership of Mr. H. B. Lyon, have
specialised on the Mosedale Rocks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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