Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The three remaining gullies above Warnscale Bottom are those on the
Haystacks, to which we have already made reference. Of these, the
left-hand or Y Gully can be summarily dismissed as containing too
much loose and dangerous rock. The next cleft to the right, WARN
GILL, suffers somewhat from the same fault, and, moreover, is
generally wet. It was reserved by Messrs. Oppenheimer, Scott, and Shaw
as a _bonne bouche_ for Mr. F. Botterill to lead up, and, as the former
naïvely remarks, ‘it proved rather more than difficult enough.’ After
climbing six excellent pitches, one of which, a long chimney raked
by a waterfall, proved to be abnormally severe, they were forced to
abandon their project when about 40 feet below the top of the gully.
A way of escape was found about 60 feet lower down on the right-hand
side. This lay up a steep rock and heather buttress leading to a
small chimney which took them to the top of the crags. The climbing
throughout is of great difficulty, quite apart from the instability
of some of the holds, and there is no doubt that this was a failure
far surpassing in achievement many a climb which has been brought to a
successful issue. It is perhaps well to note in passing that the name
is a corruption of Warnscale Gill, and was not given with any idea of
deterring subsequent parties.
STACK GHYLL, the next rift to the right, is a very different
proposition. From below it looks most alluring. Peeping over the top
of the ‘capstone’ of the first pitch is such a succession of chimneys
as is bound to arouse the keenest feelings of pleasurable anticipation
in a climber’s breast. One can well sympathise with the tantalising
way in which this comparatively short, first pitch repelled all the
earlier efforts to overcome it. All kinds of theories were evolved, but
all were proved fallacious by the smooth, overhanging chock-stone. It
seemed to be quite impregnable until, after repeated efforts, a small
hole was found on the right of the stone. This ultimately proved to be
the key to the pitch, and, as was but a just reward for many previous
disappointments, Messrs. Oppenheimer and Craig succeeded in passing
an ice-axe through the hole, and, by using the shaft as a handhold,
emerged successful. A short time previous to this the pitch had been
turned on the right, up some grassy ledges, and the gully entered
fairly high up, whence it was followed to the top.
The going immediately above the first pitch is fairly easy, and leads
by way of a narrow chimney, liberally supplied with chock-stones, to
a small scree patch. Immediately beyond is a pretty 40-foot chimney,
amenable to back and knee methods, which gives out on broken rocks.
Above this an outcrop of rock bars the way, and after passing this on
the left, one is soon confronted by the last obstacle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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