Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The gully is here spanned by an unbroken wall of rock except in the
right-hand corner, where is a fine cave, overhung by a huge block.
This is too high to reach, but off a sturdy shoulder a handhold can
be grasped on the right. A trying drag up, chiefly on the arms, then
enables the leader to effect a lodgment above the pitch, in readiness
for the others, who will derive much strenuous exercise unless they
pocket their pride and accept a tug from the rope--an excellent gully
and, if climbed during dry weather, but little inferior to the best in
Lakeland.
THE BIRKNESS COMBE CLIMBS.--The wild upland hollow dividing
High Stile from High Crag contains one of the many Eagle Crags of
Lakeland. This is the finest rock around Buttermere, and recalls very
strongly in shape, height, and general contour the famous Cyrn Lâs
buttress of Snowdonia. The rock of this Eagle Crag is of a much better
type, however, from the climber’s point of view, and the fine climb,
BIRKNESS CHIMNEY, made in August 1903 by Mr. L. J. Oppenheimer
and Dr. Norman Sheldon, is much superior to anything on Cyrn Lâs.
A good climb also is that up the prominent black rift which faces High
Crag. This is known as BIRKNESS GULLY, and it affords about a
couple of hundred feet of climbing, the upper part of which is fairly
difficult. The initial stages are quite simple, and the interest is not
fairly aroused until, high up, a huge cave, roofed in by huge boulders,
is reached. About 15 feet below the dominating boulder is a huge,
wedged rock which bridges the gully; the climb on to this behind sundry
smaller jammed stones is very pretty. It is well for the second man
to pass the leader when on a level with the main bridge and traverse
outwards on to it. He can then climb up to a higher cave immediately
below the great capstone and belay the rope. The leader then comes out
to the bridge and scales the vertical right wall immediately above it.
The holds are small but sufficient, and the proceeding is rendered
safe by the rope held by the second man. Above this nothing remains
save a descent to the foot of the Gully, with a view to an assault
upon BIRKNESS CHIMNEY. This is a climb of great severity, and,
but for the possibility of threading the rope to belay the leader at
the worst part, might be dismissed as unjustifiable. As things are,
however, a strong--one should perhaps say a _very_ strong--party will
find great sport and a reasonable immunity from risk. The Chimney
proper branches from the Gully described, at a point just below the
serious climbing in the latter. It is entered by way of a steep, grassy
corner, dominated by a chimney, generally moist, of about 20 feet in
height.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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