Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The next pitch, a chimney, is rather more so than that passed, both as
regards height and moisture. It can be obviated by the rocks on either
hand, however. Above it is a steep wall of rock surmounted by a crack.
The wall can be climbed direct or by way of a chimney on the left,
either of which routes is interesting, but not as stiff as the crack
above. Beyond this is the difficult pitch. High up, a huge mass of rock
protruding from the right wall breaks the continuity of the chimney
and forms a cave. Away outwards, at about the level of the cave, is a
shallow groove with no bottom; the difficulty is to get into this. And
a very serious difficulty it is. Fortunately a small stone is tightly
jammed inside the cave, and the leader’s rope can be passed behind
it. He then traverses outward, aided somewhat by his second, and
after a long stretch upward, in a most awkward position, a handhold is
reached. Then occurs a most strenuous arm pull, with the feet dangling
helplessly, or vainly seeking support on the smooth rock-wall. Elbows,
arms, and shoulders are simultaneously requisitioned ere a hold for the
feet can be found in the groove. Once this is gained, however, the work
is easier until the top chock-stone is reached. This demands another
effort, and the pitch is vanquished.
Dr. Sheldon, who led the first ascent, was much impressed by its
difficulty, and likened it to the top pitch of Walker’s Gully, which he
had climbed a short time previously. There remain two more obstacles
before the steep wall at the top is reached, neither of which call for
special comment. Near the angle of Eagle Crag there is a long straight
Gully which so far has not been climbed in its entirety. It repelled a
party of exceptional strength some years ago, after an assault upon it
lasting for seven hours.
BLEABERRY COMBE, carved out of the breast of High Stile,
contains the small tarn whence issues Sour Milk Ghyll, beloved of the
Buttermere day excursionist.
As he stands at the door of Buttermere Hotel and gazes upward at
the crags above the water slide, a fine rift is open to his view.
This, which by the way can also be seen from near Keswick, was the
first climb made on the Bleaberry Combe Crags. It is the BLACK
CHIMNEY, and was first climbed by the late O. G. Jones and J. W.
Robinson (what a lot we Lakeland climbers owe to those two!) in the
early days of their acquaintance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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