Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
In spite of its promising appearance it contains but two pitches, both
of which are fairly simple. Further along the crag to the right, and
hidden from sight of the hotel, is the CENTRAL GULLY. This lacks
continuity throughout the greater part of its length, but possesses
two pitches of considerable difficulty. Further round still is a long
narrow chimney. At present it is known as Bleaberry Chimney, but we
would suggest OPPENHEIMER’S CHIMNEY as a more appropriate
name, for Mr. Oppenheimer was in the large party that first climbed
it in 1908, and the fraternity will welcome this permanent means of
identifying him with the fine work he has done in its vicinity. To
quote his own words, ‘the chimney is the longest and most enjoyable
climb on these crags.’
Two long, easy gullies on the north-west side of Grassmoor, suitable
for beginners, and another on Dale Head facing Honister, complete the
tale of the Buttermere climbs, which, as the famous courses around
Wastdale become more familiar, are sure to attract more attention in
the future, and deservedly so, than they have done in the past.
It cannot at present be said that the outlying climbs of the Lake
District receive much attention, thus few of them are kept in
a good state of repair. Perhaps the Borrowdale courses are most
visited, notably Sergeant Crag Chimney and Mouse Ghyll. Considerable
alterations have taken place in the former course since Mr. Jones’
days. The difficult central pitch, or, rather, the upper part of it,
has partially collapsed. Though the ascent is much simplified, the
place needs respectful treatment. At least one leader has fallen here
quite recently. There is one Borrowdale climb which seems practically
deserted. This is BLACK CRAG GULLY. This fine, narrow rift
splits the face of the cliff at the easterly head of Troutdale, and
looks very striking when seen across the Borrowdale Valley from Mouse
Ghyll. Unfortunately there is a loose section almost half-way up which
would prevent the ascent from being recommended except to advanced
experts. The two pitches below this danger zone are quite good. The
ensuing pitch, about 30 feet high, is singularly smooth, and few
sound holds are available. The fall of a well-known leader not very
long ago tested the strength of an alpine rope here. Luckily it was
belayed around a tree, and, though in the hands of a beginner, it held
securely, despite a fall of over 20 feet. Even trees on a climb may
be sometimes useful. Above this dangerous portion the climb is most
enjoyable, and unique for the lake views it affords.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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