Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The two face routes A and B, with their variations, start
from a terrace, which extends for some considerable distance across
the face. This is about 90 feet above the commencement of the Chimney
Climb, and may best be reached by way of a small, slanting gully filled
with bilberry bushes, now known as the Bilberry Shute. It may be most
convenient first to mention the most direct ascent up the nose of the
buttress; this is known as Oliverson’s variation of the A Route. This
starts just to the left of the ‘Nose,’ and after about 40 feet of steep
practice on comparatively small holds, a ‘three-step’ traverse is made
to the right on the crest of the ‘Nose,’ whence the way lies directly
upwards to the ‘belay.’ To follow the original A and B Route from the
terrace a course to the right of the ‘Nose’ is followed up a rough slab
crowned with broken rocks, beyond which a sloping rock ledge is gained.
This may be recognized by its having a shallow ‘crevasse’ separating it
from the main crag. At the further and lower end of this ledge from the
point at which it is reached a leaf of rock, abutting against the base
of a depression in the wall above, marks the start of a short pitch,
which brings the climber to the ledge where the routes divide. This has
been called Thomson’s Ledge.
A ROUTE.--From Thomson’s Ledge a traverse to the left is made in
order to continue the A Route; a recess is soon entered, out of which
the way lies almost directly upwards for quite 40 feet to the ‘belay,’
where Oliverson’s Variation joins the old route about 80 feet above the
terrace. A traverse to the left is then made to the foot of the shallow
Lichen Chimney, the ascent of which is the stiffest part of the course,
and almost 60 feet of rope is used by the leader before the second man
can be brought forward from the ‘belay.’ The last pitch consists of a
narrow chimney, with the best holds on the right wall, which finishes
abruptly at the top of the crag.
B ROUTE.--Starting from Thomson’s Ledge a traverse is made to
the right in an upward direction until a corner is turned and the foot
of Amen Corner, a 15-foot pitch of extreme severity, is reached. This
is a slanting crack on a rock wall that overhangs, as also does the
other wall, which forms the corner. The best method of surmounting
this is to grip the upper edge of the crack and walk up the other edge
with the body nearly horizontal at first, and the hands and feet close
together.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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