Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
From the top of this pitch a ledge, known as the Gangway, which slopes
outwards and upwards, is followed for about 30 feet to a small grass
platform, and the Green Gully rises straight overhead. This is awkward
to enter directly, and it may be better to ascend some 15 feet on the
right, whence a stride can be taken into the bed of the gully. For
quite 70 feet the ascent is not difficult, and at that height the
leader reaches the anchorage of the Crow’s Nest. This is a small hollow
in the right wall, and it is attained by making a short traverse, where
the hands do most of the work. Very little assistance can be given to
those following, as the rope tends to pull the climber from his holds,
but anchorage can be found by threading the rope behind the handholds
which were used on the traverse.
The gully can be climbed to the summit, but being grassy and loose in
places, it is preferable to finish up the sound arête directly above
the Crow’s Nest.
A variation which finishes up with this section can be made by way of
an upward traverse to the right from the top of the 40-foot corner on
the A Route, and this would join the Green Gully about 15 feet below
the Crow’s Nest. It might also be mentioned that both above and below
Amen Corner traverses can be effected to the right to join the Gimmer
Chimney.
The deep, wide gully to the left of the main crag possesses one cave
pitch, which may be passed on the right of the chock-stone, but this
may be avoided altogether by keeping to the right throughout. The other
gullies on the west side of Gimmer Crag afford good scrambling, but
here again the difficulties are too easily obviated.
Climbers staying at Langdale could spend an enjoyable day by walking
over to Grasmere and thence visiting the crags in Easedale or Deer
Bield’s Crag in Far Easedale. After the climb is over it makes a
delightful finish to the day to return to Langdale over the fells by
Codale and Stickle Tarns.
THE TARN CRAG above Easedale Tarn is a prominent feature in
a favourite landscape. Quite recently Mr. J. Stables unearthed,
literally, a route thereon which gives about 200 feet of quite good,
sound climbing. The beginning lies in a line below the left of the
highest point, and cairns now mark the way. The passage from the first
chock-stone pitch to the recess, with the ensuing face traverse, will
be found the most difficult section of the ascent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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