Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
DEER BIELD’S CRAG in Far Easedale is quite an hour’s walk away
from Grasmere. Its height is nearly 300 feet; and a buttress runs up
the centre, with impossible-looking chimneys on either side. That on
the left is still unclimbed, but the one on the right yielded to the
attack of Messrs. Stables and Turner in 1908. They found at least
half-a-dozen difficult pitches, the fourth proving to be the stiffest
of all. The rock on Deer Bield’s Crag is firm and reliable, but
singularly free from good ledges for hands and feet. Upward progress is
made by using the numerous cracks which are a curious feature of the
structure.
For an off-day there is no more pleasant spot in Langdale than the
vicinity of the Oak How Needle, which is perched on the side of
Lingmoor, below the upper crags. Its situation is almost opposite
a point on the coach road about half a mile beyond Chapel Stile
when going towards Dungeon Ghyll. The outstanding mass makes a good
photograph. The ascent of the short side is easy, but a crack on the
front of the rock may be considered decidedly difficult.
The outline of BOWFELL as seen from near the head of Windermere
is one of the most massive and picturesque in Lakeland. The Langdale
Pikes are perhaps more arresting at first sight, but a longer study
of the mass to their left conveys a sense of grandeur and stability
lacking in the more famous ‘twin peaks of Langdale.’
THE LINKS OF BOWFELL are well worth a visit from climbers
passing from Dungeon Ghyll to Wastdale, for they offer a pleasant
contrast to the exposed buttresses of Gimmer Crag. Unlike most of our
rock-faces, they have a southerly aspect, overlooking Eskdale and Three
Tarns. The gullies, starting at the eastern end of the crags, are
numbered from one to eleven, but only Nos. 4, 5, and 6 contain good
climbing. The others are a suitable practice ground for novices.
It is well to start operations in No. 4, which has two pitches of
interest, and then descend by way of No. 3 to the foot of No. 5. The
large pitch at its foot is quite entertaining, and upon the occasion
of its first ascent, on a day of pouring rain, offered a stubborn
resistance before capitulating on the right. Above it, easy going takes
one quickly to the top of the crags, and thence around to the foot of
No. 6.
This also possesses a good pitch of the chock-stone variety near its
foot. The way up it lies straight to beneath the ‘capstone,’ which bars
direct progress. It is then feasible to work out under the stone on the
right until an upward move can be made to the top of the pitch. On the
occasion of the first ascent, in September 1897, by Messrs. C. R. B.
Storry, G. H. McKilburn, and the writers, the upper part of the pitch
was topped by loose stones; even nowadays it is well for the following
climbers to take cover under the capstone, both for their own safety
and to belay the leader as he scales the pitch.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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