Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
THE BOWFELL BUTTRESS is a more serious proposition, and as
a climb the route found up it, in December 1900, by Messrs. Shaw,
Oppenheimer, Craig, Hargreaves, and West, compares in point of
difficulty and length with the North Climb on the Pillar, if the latter
ceased immediately above the Nose.
The Buttress faces N.N.E., overlooking Mickleden, and is best reached
from Langdale by following ‘the Band’--the long, grassy spur running
down towards Stool End Farm--about two-thirds of the way to the top of
Bowfell. From here it is best to contour around to the right and thence
along, bearing obliquely upward, to the foot of the Crags.
The work starts at the lowest point of the Buttress, and, to quote Mr.
Oppenheimer’s lucid account, ‘after 30 feet of broken rocks, the foot
of a long chimney is passed, and a 10-foot chimney to the right of it,
with an awkward pitch, taken. This leads, in another 10 feet, to a
small terrace running down to a gully on the right. The next 50 feet
is an upward traverse to the left, into the long chimney, soon after
entering which a good sentry-box affords a stopping-place.
‘After 40 feet straight up the long chimney the latter ends on a grass
terrace, which slopes down to the right and broadens considerably;
following this, for 20 feet, a rather difficult vertical crack is
reached. From the shelf at the top of the crack 50 feet up, bare rough
rocks lead to a grassy corner. Here there is a very convenient large
block, to which the second man should belay himself as the leader
advances to the left along a very exposed upward traverse, with little
handhold, into a small rock corner.
‘The best plan here is to climb to the right, away from the corner, and
then to the left over the top of it, on to a grassy patch sloping away
to the left, beside a fine belaying pin. To the right of this a chimney
starts: 40 feet up there is a small pitch; then another 40 feet on
sloping slabs to the right with a wall to the left, leads to the top of
the Low Man, where a cairn has been placed.
‘Twenty feet more of easy scrambling leads to the top of the buttress,
which is separated from the mass of Bowfell by a narrow neck, from
which scree gullies descend on either side.’
A few short scrambles can be found amongst the crags above Angle
Tarn on Hanging Knott, but the terrace-like formation of the rocks
hereabouts is of greater interest to the geologist than to the climber.
Flat Crags, and the wild recesses of Hell Ghyll and Crinkle Ghyll, have
been visited by the fraternity, but their reports of these localities
are quite unfavourable, except as regards their scenery.
DOE CRAG.--At the time of the writing of Jones’ chapter on this
fine cliff, most of the routes up the best rock faces in the district
were exhausted, and short variations had become the order of the day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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